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So I obviously have two choices. I can resize rods to all the same size, polish the crank and get select fits. And the alternative is to machine everything just to get the clevites to work$$$. For now ill ditch the ARP studs and go with option number one. I want to see how far a properly...

they said im 4/10 thou over spec on the loaded side of the rod. There spec is 2.1659-2.1671 .I am having no luck even finding select fit bearings now. I was trying to explain the Toyota system to the machinest and he kept telling me im overthinking it. I don't see how I can use a STD size...

Is it easier/better to size them all the same or can i just size them to the same number stamped on everything for convienence in the future?

The crank is in great shape and the engine was strong before I took it apart . I thought I can't use a standard set of bearings with the Toyota select fit system of bearings?

The last thing I have to do to get my engine done is order bearings for my Na-T 7M. I know that rod resizing is recommended especially for the 7M. I took my crank,rods, and block to get it all checked out and so far they say I need resize the rods. How would this be done? Do I have then...

Update!! I have been dragging my butt lately but the last thing for me to do is order bearings. I took my rods and crank to the machine shop they reccomended I get the rods resized so that's gonnaa set me back about $100. I don't know how they would determine what to size it though? Good news is...

He's got an auto

for shits n giggles my instructor put a IC on a 98 civic gained about 10 hp on the dyno. i have heard of methanol injection being installed on high comp v8's.

You have a big front mount too huh? Bet that's helping allot. Just today we were dynoing a car that had its timing off. It had the slightest knock and out of 20 people only me (standing the furthest away) and the instructor heard it. It takes a trained ear to make sense of all the noise under...

What ring gap are you going with?

So im really disapointed with the duplicolor high temp engine enamel. It flakes right off and I even tried curing it with the infared lamp. It peels off just by placing a piece of scotch tape on it and pulling it off. They refunded me and I bought some por15 like I should have the first time.:nono:

Zach, Was this due to Broken ringlands? I searched around and the only time NPR's failed it was a ringland. What where your piston to clyinder bore clearences and ring gaps? I think the guys making 400hp on an unopened motor are getting there by loose/worn clearences.

You want the greatest pressure in the manifold and the lowest in the dp. Its like heat it always flows from high to low. The greater the pressure difference the faster it will spool. I Would only go 3in after the dp if the cat is deleted. You want 1-2 psi of exhaust pressure at wot. Laguna seca...

Get the Driftmotion downpipe, best price around. If you only have money for one part of the exhaust get the dp its the main restriction. I have seen many aftermarket exhaust systems that taper to a smaller size. This is due to the deletion of the cat where the exhaust is alot cooler downstream

They cared more about the car than the fucking injured people!

The restriction is in the elbow/dp. Driftmotion has a nice 3in one for about $200.

Boosy controler or Restrictive exhaust ?

Pretty sure he means 340 hp

Most obd2 cars can do this with a programmer. My friends sti has one and he can select between different driving modes on the fly. To bad its not so easy for our cars. Actually I stumbled on this... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SSAQbanRZw

i broke down my NA-T into different points of concern. Im keeping the high compression so preventing detonation is my main concern. THE PLAN.. Fuel-walbro,fuel filter, flow tested and clean injectors Electronics-GTE recondition wiring harness. check for cracks broken wires coax for knock...