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Reset the CPS..

My car has a hood liner and my clear coat is in good shape, but I still use all the stock heat shields. My friends 87 with no hood liner and no heat shields has the clear coat peeling directly above the exhaust/turbo. If you're repainting your car, why not protect your investment?

I wonder what the stock airbox does flow then. If it is roughly 3"x2" then the area comes out to be 6" and the inlet to a ct26 is roughly 2.6" so I guess you're right. The stock airbox if my guesses are correct, the area at the airbox is greater than the inlet of the turbo.

Just measured my old one, comes out to 1.825" inside on both sides and 2.125" outside on both sides.

I figured the engine would ingest more air than could flow through the passage, especially with a paper filter. I thought the turbo would create quite a draw. Do you really think it could flow roughly 36 lbs/min for the 57 trim to breathe enough?

You don't think the air coming into a 3"x2" gap is restrictive?

My car idles like stock, right at 650 rpm even with the lex afm/560cc injectors.

No no no. Don't ever post shit like that again, this is a supra not home depot.

CPS is off one tooth, if it fires fully one way or the other, your CPS is off one tooth.

I do believe somewhere it was dyno tested, as a comparison to the filtering and flow properties of the filters. The paper filter was among the best filtering, but the worst flow. The apexi offered the best filtering and the best flow, also showed a 15 hp increase(dyno proven) over the other...

Perhaps a noisy injector? I know my freshly cleaned 560 evo injectors are pretty noisy.

You're used to that 7m torque throwing you into your seat, not the powerband of a 1j just rolling into the torque, especially at 6 psi. Just to make you 1j people happy, SOME 1j's do have that snap, break your neck torque when they come alive.

But when does the ecu with the lex afm start to see fuel cut? There's no other way to raise fuel cut other than going speed density, thus tricking the ecu. So you're no longer using the ECU's parameters at all, the ecu thinks it's still seeing near stock levels of air and fuel so yet again...

I'm also thinking about milling the v-band off of the compressor housing, thoughts? It's a 2.9" v-band with it going down to 2.5" behind it, I'm thinking of just milling it down to 2.5" but leaving a bump on the end so the coupler won't just slide off.

How far will map-ecu take you though? Can you raise the rev limit with it? What about further raising fuel cut with it? When you're running a much bigger turbo and you're greatly changing when and how much air the engine is receiving, the timing and fuel might be off for what the engine needs...

Starting to put more thought into my hx35 turbo build, I've already torn down the turbo and cleaned up all mating surfaces along with sealing the waste gate hole. Does anyone see any problems with using this kit from DM without the turbo...

Ever thought of going standalone? And it's not about tuning the car better than the toyota ecu, it's about getting the tune to suit your driving style and parts.

So you thought throwing on new parts that could make the problem worse, would correct it? Do you have any CEL codes? Do you have a wideband on the car? If the problem arose when you did the COP mod, why not change back to the normal coils and see if the problem is within the COP mod itself...

If you did a little bit of fine tuning yourself with the afpr and the lex afm screw, you can get it a little bit closer to 11.0 at WOT. Mine goes to 11.0 at WOT then slowly creeps back to 10.5 where it settles, but by then I'm shifting.

Oh well that makes sense now, so the car is on a few second timer for the open loop at a preset load% and by the time the car clicks over to full open map and high load/rpm the rpms are already near mid 3k rpms. Makes sense.