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Update: I was on Zilvia.net, a 240SX forums and saw a guy selling a used V1 boost gauge. I have the Engine temp and oil pressure version of those gauges already so I bought it. I bought the gauge and tested it today on the running 2JZ I have and it reads two bar at idle. It does not read...

Drill a hole in the crank and then get a stud extractor and use it. You can also get someone who has a welder to weld the bolt back on. Gas or tig welding will be best there. Then soak the bolt with WD-40 and try to get it loose with the car in gear and a 1/2 breaker bar.

If that solves it, take out the sensor and clean the threads. Check that your block has a good ground as well.

Well, if they give you back your money, send me a PM if you are interested in the head I have.

Take a wire, ground it and touch the housing of the sensor. See if you get a reading.

Well, I still have it incase you are interested in it. Don't use that machine shop but get them to fix it and ask them to measure the height of the head and post here or do it yourself.

Weren't you the guy who PM'ed me and I told you that I had a rebuilt, milled, valve job, valve lashes and new seals all for 450 shipped? Sucks to see this. Pouring water will not help, the cooling system needs to be pressurized to see any pin hole leaks. Measure the head and see what the...

I believe I will be making a How To 1.5JZ thread soon.

Does it grind when you try to put it in gear or when it is already in gear and you try moving off. Is your clutch adjusted properly according to the TSRM?

"Baby Don't Hurt Me, Don't Hurt Me, No More?"

Check your clutch, if everything is fine, you have a gearbox problem.

When you say "start off," you mean let off the clutch? Sounds like a gearbox problem.

You put the car in neutral and the wheels were spinning? The flat side is the flywheel side. Flat = Flywheel. Easy to remember. It sounds like a gearbox problem more than a clutch problem since you say you are in neutral and the wheels are spinning.

Nice. Good job.

I never undone bolts with it and not as a hammer. I take my time, I will set it to what I need to torque too, put it down, pick up when ready, torque and then back all the way down. Snap-On only goes down to 1.5ft/lbs, no zero, so I back it down all the way to that level. Torquing a head, I...

So after three engine builds, it is worth to send it to get calibrated?

I always follow the ARP torque specs and I also use a generous amount on the threads and inside of the nut to make sure it is well lubricated so I get the accurate torque. Ian, what is your recommendation of calibrating a torque wrench? It has been used on six engines to torque rods, mains...

When Ian gets mad, he gets mad. If you listen to everything you read on the forums, you will worry about everything. Just ask Ian how many times he gets a PM from me because I am over thinking everything.

You are dumping fuel. Put the stock 370CC back in and see what happends at idle and boost.

440CC * 84% = 369.6CC, you should be pulling 14% to allow for your ECU to act as if it was on 370CC. You have another problem. Put the original 370CC injectors in and see what happens.