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It will pull different a different vacuum but not by that much.

The DriftMotion Kit is their one for the JZ setup? If so, how did it fit?

US Toyota Dealer can't get this right?

Start up is what I am reffering to.

Try it and see, your girlfriend won't let you go. When you do try it, are you going to give me good feedback for giving you a tip? LOL!

Why would a manufacture make a rod like that?

O, well something is wrong because I have never seen this. Find it hard any rod manufacture would design a rod that requires the block to be grind down.

Check Codes. Read this page and the page after it. Report back after doing this. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=23

How do you use the Honda AEM on the motor? You would have to make a jumper harness or something?

Maybe the rod needs to be flipped around, oil hole on the wrong side? Just guessing.

Ian, I believe the 7M is the only one that has that. It is the sensor on the water neck and turns on the A/C fans at 212F. The JZ engines only have two sensors for temperature. One is the gauge and the other is the ECU sensor. OP, you will have to remove the stock temperature gauge sender...

Yes, remove the water neck and get someone to weld a fitting in so you can screw in the sensor. They are usually 1/8" NPT but if you are not sure, just order it and wait until you get it to buy the right fitting. You can also tap the waterneck but I don't really like that since you have to...

In NY I had about -21 vacuum. Also, you probably do have a leak. On a full speed density system like the 1J, it really wont show a leak like a AFM based system would, like the 7M. It is how I check for leaks, if my vacuum reading is off, then I know something is wrong. I always smoke test...

Calling Jdub........

^Winning.

The 1JZ has less rotating mass due to it's shorter stroke which allows the higher revving capability.

Was that to me? Are you telling me I am supposed to use 5-20 on a 225,000 mile engine? Yes, our shop S10 has that much, well almost there, it is at 224,xxx, and we use 10-40 on it.

Upper and lower control arms and ball joints. Tie rods Rack and pinion leaks Rack and pinion bushings Sway bar bushings Stabilizer links Struts and mounts There are more but that is what you should check first.

You generally increase the weight of the oil with the mileage of the engine but the climate also factors in. Try and see what 10W-40 looks like in single digit temperatures.

What came first, the chicken or the egg?