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Pressure and vacuum check....

The CT will have quicker spool, but will fall of at higher rpms. T4 has more top end and lots of room to grow. But its more expensive.

Holly thread bump

We actually just got a new Escope Pro with the COP, miss fire, and pressure tranducers. I used it for most of the diagnosis. Its pretty sweet.

My 88' has a 1.181" race. Two of the Anchor 6062 bearing i have gotten from O'reilly have been 1.257". I dont know if they are being mixed up during packaging, but check it before you buy. I ordered a 6061 and it will hopefully be right.

No I mean the brake lines internally failing and acting as a check valve. Its an old myth from old school mechanics. Dragging brakes is caused by stuck pistons, hardware, slides and missing pad spreaders.

The whole check valve in the brake hoses thing is a myth.

The new and discard thickness is the same on the Supra. They don't want you to cut the rotors. Those pulsation you are feeling is caused by lack of parallelism. This can be caused by -Worn wheel bearings and bent hubs. -Stuck slides, pistons, and hardware. -Improper break in and driving habits...

Is the new engine pre89? If you can wait, save up some more money. Replace HG, water pump, crank seals,and all hoses. Maybe even a used upgraded pressure plate. Trust me, the clutch will die. Then youll have even more downtime.

Flywheels are different. My clutch died within a month. You could also swap a 2JZGE and go turbo when you can afford it.

Keep overheating it and your going to anneal your head bro.

Driftmotion has a 3in exhaust for $360. How much do you plan to spend?

Cyfi6's sounds just like mine did. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?144548-Intermittent-misfire-at-low-loads-and-idle!-Pics-Video-Info http://youtu.be/n1JrXvVbnng

Whoopz. Use the full engine if its got low mileage and inside valve covers look clean.

If anything the 7M runs too rich. Gains will be from leaning it out. Your better off spending time and money on an MBC, downpipe and full exhaust.

New walbro and fuel filter was installed before the injectors. Tank was spotless. The injector screen was also completely clean. It most likely has a damaged pintle and seat.

Diagnosed and repaired my slight miss at idle as a clogged injector. Installed new hood and hatch struts.

I have struggled with a slight miss only at idle from one cylinder for about a year now. It has just recently become worse where it will show up when cruising at >1200 RPM. It only happened when hot and pulled great all the way to redline. There are quite a few threads where members have...

-Block test (from dead cold till op temp. Some only leak cold) -Pressure test (~15psi) -Compression test -Vacuum test cooling system My car block and pressure checked out good, but a had a leak under vacuum only. When the coolant cooled it would suck in air at the upper heater core hose...

In Cali even one point automatically guarantees your chances of working at a dealership is zero. Hire representation. I wish i would have.