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If you have access to a smoke machine, you can smoke the manifold and see where it comes out. Fastest/easiest method, but most people don't have the equipment. -AM3

A common problem is the CPS, try playing around with the wires and connector on that. -AM3

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm161/driftct/S6300870.jpg This was another member on here. Red loctite for sure! -AM3

Yes, but I still had my machine shop put mine in because they had the right equipment and shaved them to fit exactly right. -AM3

The Supra is one of the easier cars I've worked on to be completely honest. On the original topic, a 19mm socket and breaker on the front pulley is the easiest option. -AM3

Yeah, I was thinking that. Most of the cars I have worked on were non-ABS, but that's an excellent point. -AM3

While that is acceptable to get tough air bubbles out, I was always taught that surge bleeding should only be used after the brakes have been bled. My personal favorite (Because I too am lazy) is to gravity bleed. Open all the bleeders, fill the master cylinder, and let physics do the rest. Its...

There is no Crank position sensor on the 7M, just the Cam sensor. Also, I'm assuming you mean sequential injection and not direct injection? Because they are completely different. Direct injection uses a high pressure booster pump and special injectors to spray fuel directly into the combustion...

Replace the EGR cooler gasket and the small 90 degree coolant hose at the back of the head while you have it apart. -AM3

http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-7m-gtestockaccordianintakehose.php This should be what you need. -AM3

Flaring is really easy and brake line is cheap. Flaring kits and tubing benders aren't that expensive either. Otherwise, if there is fluid in the line just compress the caliper with a C-clamp to push it out the opposite direction. -AM3

My machine shop charged just under $600 to measure everything, block to be bored and decked, and turning the crank. Not too sure about the head, I had a new one that I used. -AM3

hehe, people that take my sarcasm seriously make me laugh. In all seriousness, Helicoils are the only way to go. I've seen JB weld used for all kinds of things. It works, but about 90% of the time I've only seen it work as a temporary fix. If you are using this car as a reliable daily driver...

I facepalmed 4 times in here. Facepalm 1: "i need a running driving car ASAP" You made a bad choice if you need a reliable daily driver. Project =/= DD Facepalm 2: "I've LOVED supras from the first time i saw a MKIV wen i was 8 or 9...." Please tell me that first time wasn't a bright orange...

You thought the Supra was expensive? Have fun buying German parts. (Hint: they aren't cheap, and they do break) -AM3

I want! -AM3

I can haz Turbo? -AM3

That won't work. At all. Put the sensor in the stock housing or it will never run. -AM3

Please, use some recognizable form of the English language and exhibit that you are intelligent enough to work on an engine as complicated as this before asking for help. Thank you. -AM3

Yeah I reread my post and actually thought for a half second and realized how retarded I went there, lol. My bad. -AM3