Search results

Lol, you might wait a while. I tend to be a little forgetful sometimes :) I'll try to remember, though. Should be able to do it tomarrow. Just get under there with some wrenches, and see which one fits. Oh yeah, and put the little caps back in the ends of the line. Remove the old line...

Looks like a 21mm(maybe 19mm, but looks to big) on the pump. Probably the same on the rack, but I can't see it right now. I'll check this weekend when I get my car up on the lift. You should be able to get a wrench in there on the pump pretty easy. Make sure you either have new copper seals...

So basicly, this thread was started because Jet and Ian were being dicks, and picking on Supramacist, who has a lot of people bring their complaints of this same intolerable treatment to him? Would all of these people please speak up? No? Here, I will: IJ and Jet: Yeah, you can be real know...

For the valve covers(after you do the hg) You only need to use RTV on the front 2 sharp corners where the valve covers go over the caps. Take the valve cover screws to the local bolt shop or auto parts, and match the length/thread pitch to a bolt with a hex head. Get washers for them as well...

Waaahhh??? ATF in the gas, hunh? Guess I'll find it in an earlier post.

Lol, too true. If I'd have known about those a month ago, I probably would have got them. A lot less work. :)

Just exactly how can you tell the difference? I know when I need to change the oil by the mileage or date. Every 2500 mi. or 3 months, which ever comes first. Religiously. I use Castrol GTX 10w30. The oil is only a touch darker when I let it out than it was when I put it in. Prevents Rod...

70 ft. lbs. on stock bolts here as well. Even reused them when I did the hg a couple years ago.

"When are you gonna fix that dash?" "Where's the fu**king door handle?" "That mustang's gonna beat you..." "Holy shit that mustang's slow!" "What do you want a turbo for?" My bro: "I wish my car(96 T/A) was this comfortable/ rode this good!!"

Sorry, internet has been down since Monday. The ball joint is Perfect Circle, part #: fa2133. I had to cut the top lip off of the control arm that the cap for the stock ball joint is in. After that, the cover and ball joint came right out. I took the arms and new ball joints to the machine...

Don't remember what it cost, maybe $40? I wasn't really worried about smog, just fuel mileage, and like to keep me car running at its best. More than just an o2 sensor can fail you. EGR system malfunction, bad catalytic converter, even the need for a tune-up. Copy the test sheet from the...

I had the washer break off the front of the timing belt drive gear on mine, and made rattling noises like you described.

Bought mine at Auto Zone.

They're actually pressed in just like any other ball joint. The clip was unnecessary; I put them on there for peace of mind. Don't know what vehicle the ball joints are actually for. I just went to Auto Zone and dug around in their stock until I found one that had all the right dimensions...

Check out my thread in the general discussions forum. I had a set made with changable ball joints.

Hello all. I couldn't find an upper control arm/ball joint set-up for the MkIII with a changeable ball joint, so I had a set made. If any of the machinists on here would be interested in making these for the community, I could get you the info. on what had to be done, and the part # for...

Went to A.Z. and matched thread size and length on a bolt with 10mm. head, and got some flat washers as well. Changed the gaskets, and used a drop or 2 of red locktite on each bolt. Haven't had a leak there in over 6 months.

Ahh, thanks. Auto Zone must have it listed wrong.... go figure ;)

Compressor, or maybe the tensioner pulley for it? Take off the a/c belt and see if it goes away.

Iirc, the 89 7mgte with auto. trans. has the 100 amp alt. I was hoping it would take the stress from the elect. fans and stereo system. It's the fans that really suck a lot of power. 15+ amps on low speed, 25 on high.