Yup. Same oil groove. I compared it to a set of stock cams I have as well, and its a bit wider(maybe 2mm?), and the hole looks bigger as well. The blockage in the first hole is actually the bottom of the bolt hole for the cam gear. I looked in it(oil hole in the journal) with a flashlight...
Oct. 86, and never hard to start when hot. Cold is a different story....
Good battery, and keep the terminals clean and lubed. I found this copper stuff that you paint on elect. connections to keep them from corroding, but can't remember what its called...
I'm gonna pull mine out of the box tomorrow and compare. I took a quick glance to make sure they weren't broke when they came in the other day, but didn't inspect them fully yet. Just to busy...
Go take the filter out of a 700r4(or quite a few other Chevy trans. for that matter), and see how well it pulls fluid. The neck of the filter goes into the trans. higher than the full mark on the stick.
I honestly don't know why it did it. Must have been a flaw in the gasket, as that was the only place it was leaking. 4 cyl. Dodge that died and wouldn't start. Turned out it was shooting water right on the distributor.
The intake is cracked because you didn't clean all the old gasket off. Old cast aluminum is pretty brittle, so when you tightened the bolts with little pieces of hardened gasket left in there, they created high spots that you were trying to bend the intake around. Ask me how I know... Don't...
Are these symptoms more pronounced in the morning, when you first start it up, but seem to go away for the rest of the day? I had a T-bird in the shop a few months back with similar symptoms. Wound up the head gasket had a tiny flaw in it, and coolant was weeping into the cylinder when it sat...
Meh, grease on the pads ain't the worst(brake) thing I've seen. There was the guy who greased both rotor faces, on all 4 wheels. The woman who brought her car in complaining of a "crunchy" sound when she hit the brakes. Rotors were so thin you could see the fins through them. I've seen...
You need a "brake hardware kit." You can get it at the dealer(might have to buy it by the piece), or most parts stores. It will come with new clips, springs, and bolts.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/index.php
Scroll down to "Authorized Vendors." There are others as well. My car parts folder in my bookmarks has around 30 different stores in it, all selling Supra parts. You would be surprised what Google can find...
Forged parts(Pistons, rods, etc.). You need to put together a list of internals, and start comparing prices through the many different vendors and online stores. Don't skimp on the bottom end. Don't need to bore out the cylinders unless they're scored. Usually a good honing to clean them up...
I liked the Nexen S2000(?) tires. They only lasted a year(around 20,000 mi. guesstimated), but had pretty good traction, even in the rain. They don't like long, smoky burn outs much, though. Get a little slick when they get heated up like that.
ecu: http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=122
ignition switch: http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=BE&P=15
That should get you started. Hopefully one of the electronics people will chime in, as this isn't my best area...
Think I would start...
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