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2006 Mustang wheels

Wow, that was pretty funny. First time I'd seen that. Gonna e-mail to some other mechanics I know, though. Thanks for the laugh :)

Does it miss as well? Curious if maybe it spit out a shim.

If you don't have it at least checked, and you put it back together with the head warped, you'll be fixing it again in a few weeks(if that). Cheaper to take it to the shop and get it at least checked.

87 n/a. Reused the stock bolts when I did the h.g. on mine as well. I would advice taking the head to the machine shop and having it checked and milled as necessary. Make sure you blow out all the bolt holes prior to putting the gaskets on. I torqued mine to 70 ft. lbs., and its held fine...

Bosch single wire universal is around the same price, iirc. Even comes with a plate so it'll bolt in the stock location. OP: Sounds like you have fuel delivery problems; Injectors hanging open, or maybe the csi stuck open. Could be a coolant temp. sensor, but I don't think it would make it...

How much for the roof scoop??:biglaugh:

Could also have a stuck caliper on that side. If so, it'll eat the pad pretty quick, and overheat the rotors, causing them to warp.

Find a restaurant goods wholesaler, and look for "Solves It." best full strength degreaser I've used. I like that.... neurotic acid. Thanks for the laugh.

The title to this thread is an oxymoron. It's not reliable, its a ticking bomb, and its gonna blow at the worst time. You will reach a point where you do unrepairable damage. Good luck with that :3d_frown:

Yeah, and if I need parts for cores, or to "experiment" on, I just go pull them from it.

Man, that sucks. Injectors tick pretty loud sometimes as well, and can sometimes fool the untrained ear. Is it louder up in the engine compartment, or under the car?

^^ What he said. Fill the radiator with correct coolant/water mix, then start the car and turn the heater on full. Should pull water through the heater core, and chase the air out. Just run it for a minute or 2, it won't take long. Refill the radiator and reservoir, and you should be good to go.

You might take a read through the build gallery as well, as there are some very... interesting... Supra's in there.

This thread should help you out some. Read all the links in there as well, lots of good info. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=182731&postcount=23

If you didn't clean all the coolant, oil, and trash out of the holes in the block for the head bolts, the bolts won't seat all the way down when you torque them. Most of the vendors here sell ARP bolts and stud kits. Make sure you read the directions, as they have different torque specs, iirc.

If I'm not mistaken, there's a valve that closes the heater core off from the cooling system when its not in use. Brown crud was probably stuck in the heater core, or was from the coolant/water sitting stagnant in the heater core while you weren't using it. Did you turn the heater on when you...

Paid $300 for my 87 dd. BHG, and wrecked in the front. Slight frame(at the bumper) and core support damage, but not bad. Interior is good except the dash. Paid 500 for my parts car with rod knock and trashed front seats. It's paid for itself now in the money it's saved me.

No problem. It'll be a while yet, I'm in need of a few more things(I changed my plans in the middle of the build. Hate it when I do that), and am gonna have to put it on hold until after Christmas, unfortunately. For some reason kids(nephews) think they HAVE to get presents. It is very...

Do the maint. items first. Timing belt, water pump, hoses, acc. belts, t-stat, full tune-up, and oil change. Might want to flush out the cooling system, and fill it up with fresh coolant/water mix as well.