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Maypop tires will do that...

Ahh. Looks really tight, and like its not hooked up to the coil. Must be the pic angle.

Lol, me neither. Amazing what a little Google can do for ya ;)

Smack it harder? I like it when people fix things that way...

http://www.theruststore.com/?gclid=CJrzwKSNxI8CFQlxOAodx2ctew Fix the leak that is allowing water in there(hatch seal, tail light seals, whatever) Find the one that best suits your needs, use it to remove the rust, fill the holes, prime and paint inside the tire well, and under the car as well...

That's why I HATE Auto Zone. Knuckle heads don't explain anything, and are usually going off information they don't understand. You can use Brake Quiet, but it goes on the back of the pad, between it and the caliper. If you lubed the pads between them and the rotors, that's your problem...

I don't blame you for replacing all the injector seals, smart thing to do while you have them out, and they're cheap, to. It's pretty easy to pinch a seal at the fuel rail, but usually they'll dump fuel all the time. I like to apply a thin layer of grease to all the seals before I install...

He might be right for an aftermarket one. I used the flanges off the cat, and welded a piece of 3" in between so that it would still use the stock seal rings.

The ground you have on the slave cylinder goes to the bottom starter bolt, iirc. Where's your coil wire at, btw? Looks like its missing in the first pic.

Nope. Stock cat is 3" flange. I used them to make my 3" test pipe. When my exhaust was stock, it didn't leak. Can't get a good seal on the OBX header though. Think I need to have a bigger flange put on it.

Hook it up anyway. ALL grounds are important. It goes from the trans. mount to one of the cross member to frame bolts.

I checked recently with a company in Houston, Tx., and they said they're standard price was $275. Includes clean-up, bearings, and seals. Price goes up from there depending on what else is wrong. turbochargers.com

MSD sells the trigger wheels, sensors, everything. You just have to fit it is all. Not a big deal, really. I'm sure you could wire the CPS to work as well, just I've never tried to do it. Seems installing the crank sensor and trigger wheel would be easier.

If the injectors are leaking at the fuel rail, it'll be gas. If they're leaking at the intake, it'll be vacuum.

Did you make sure you got all the old gasket off both mating surfaces before you put the intake together? If there's any old gasket in there, it will leak. You need to take it to a shop and get them to put a smoke machine on it. You'll know where your leak is then.

Ok, here's ANOTHER link for you.... http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=876 Oh yeah, and I'd start looking for the vacuum leak at the intake, possibly where you gooped it together with silicone in your other post.

You'll be much happier in the long run with a fresh rebuild. JDM is the same as a junk yard motor. Old, used, and abused.

lol, can be... here's another link for ya: http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=2 Shows vacuum and wiring for the fuel system.

You can use a magnetic trigger wheel on the crank For that DIS6. MSD should have a universal set-up that would bolt to the front of the dampener with a little fabbing. Something like this, maybe: http://www.msdignition.com/mag_1.htm

Everything you touched. Check every connection, and every nut and bolt. Make sure everything is tight, and that the belt is tensioned correctly. check the alt. fuse/fusible link as well.