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So you would reccomennd them to be on the safe side? My sig pic is about the max. Its under on width by 30 pixels.

Thinking of going. Trying to decide if my car is ready enough for the track.

Well thats the problem, i know a few things like the deadening material and all the little odds and ends, but i cant see the total weight bieng much over 150lbs. I dont even want to lose the luxury of the car for ~150lbs. Id rather make another 20 horsepower. Not to mention i hate the look of...

:word8kn:

What is worth removing besides seats? Already have no spare or jack/tools, and A/C is removed. I dream of pulling 500lbs out, but i cant think of anywhere worth removing.

I think the 1/4 miles ones are more accurate then the horsepower ones. For instance i ran my car on pocket dyno (Iphone) and it gave me a 12.18@116 but then said 316WHP. I believe at least the MPH because i have ran cars that go in that MPH range and were about even. But the Horsepower seems WAY...

What radiator cap are you using?

This is why the AFPR is useful as you can make a broad change to the mixture that pertains to your situation without effecting the curve of the tune. New injectors or used? brand?

Always like that nose panel. How hard is it to get. Sorry i know that doesnt help your situation.

50 bucks to machine down two bolts? Damn, im in the wrong buisness.

My car weighed 3780 at the e-town track scale with me, forget how much fuel, 2-12" subs and a bunch of other shit. Sucks.

Toyotanos: Did you buy new coils or used coils? What about the ignitor? How much dwell are you running?

Prolly cause there 20 years old and worn out. Definitely invest in new seals, fuel is the last thing you want leaking.

Injector size has nothing to do with pump, regulator or j-tube. Higher power output requires the larger pump, the larger pump out flows the stock regulator and the j-tube. Injector size will have no effect on this system as larger injectors will open for a shorter amount of time passing the same...

Ever look into +2mm oversize valves? I know the standard oversize valves are only +1mm, but is there a reason that +2mm valves like in the 2jz cant be used? I would assume the valves are too close to each other or the side of the combustion chamber?

Better supporting mods would be a LEXUS AFM and Tuning device. Get new seals, there cheap and can save a car fire.

You dont necessarily need the factory timing map as most engines need roughly the same timing slope. I run a max advance of 35 degrees at 3krpm 0psi load. I run 16 degrees at idle with -9.7psi load. My timing map drops roughly 1 degree of timing per PSI of boost. I copied most of my map from...

Then its not bleeding enough air. Only getting 7psi means the wastegate is working as the spring pressure is ~7psi. At least it was on my replica. Open the boost controller valve so that it lets more air escape from the line or get a better boost controller. Try blowing threw the controller as...

Whats the retail on one of these?

the ports on the actuator part? I believe there 1/8th NPT if its the knockoff style/size. They are that size on my knock off.