Search results

being that you and Ian have posted a few times while my slow ass was typing the last post, The stock front pistons are 60mm and the stock rears are 38mm.

yes, typically (but not always the case) on a front engine/rear drive setup, the brake bias is set to around 70% front, 30% rear. The diameter of the rotors, size of the brake pads, total piston area of the calipers, master cylinder (on some cars) and proportioning valve all play a roll in...

the hub center is 60mm on the supra (MKIII and MKIV) waiting to drop the car would not make a difference as long as you got correct wheels (i.e. offset and width) to begin with.

here is a good link to read for info about fuel cells. http://www.fuelsafe.com/faqs.htm

first off, is it comming from the front or rear?

Correct me if I am wrong here, but the title says N/A fuel sys. for GTE. I am assuming that you are attempting to run turbo with the N/A fuel system. If so, just upgrading the fuel pump will do nothing to compensate for boost. I have never heard the term AMFPR, but seeing the FPR part of it...

looks good man! below is picture of a low and high beam unit. there is or should be a difference in the lenses. The one on the top is the low beam and bottom is the high beam.

looks good man! below is picture of a low and high beam unit. there is or should be a difference in the lenses. The one on the top is the low beam and bottom is the high beam.

Thanks guys. bcg04, actually the car is kinda technically a N/A. I bought the car as an N/A-T car that had a messed up motor cause the guy didn't know what he was doing to begin with. so the N/A valve covers were already there. One other note that I just remembered is that I had to modify...

sorry that took me a few days, I just took some quick eyeballed dimensions assuming that you didn't need them 100% correct, but if you do,let me know and I can get you more accurate ones, but here is what I got trans face to shifter center = 20 3/8" bellhousing (engine side to trans face) =...

yes, I have them mounted on the firewall. Below are a few pictures that I just went out and took. rakkasan is correct, i got a set of N/A wires and removed the coil ends from a set of GTE wires, cut the N/A wires to length and attached the GTE ends. Also if you did it, you would have to lengthen...

You are correct on the coil connection. just make sure that you have the right ones (- and +) connected to the right locations. The metal base below the stock coil is the Ignitor and must be retained. The MSD hookup is very simple and straight forward. If your budy doesn't have the...

Input shaft = 160mm (6.3") pilot bearing = 12mm ID and 32mm OD The other two dinensions I dont have off hand, but I can get for you tomorrow when I am at the shop.

the other thing with the cressida motor is that the dipstick is in a different location the the supra do to the front sump of the cressida. if used, will cause incorrect oil level readings. the intake is the same for the for all 7m cressida's and the supra 7mgte (turbo). (same toyota part...

if anything, just do the wires. like Ian said, "Even the GE has a pretty stout ignition system make sure it's functioning right and it will be more than enough." if you did go as far as to add the CDI box, you will need a MSD Tach Adapter #8910 otherwise the car wont run.

does the Check engine light (MIL) come on when you turn the key all the way on, but not to the actual cranking point?

all n/a's cam with 4.30 rear gears all turbo's before 08/88 came with 3.909 rear gears all turbo's from 08/88 on came with 3.727 rear gears having said that, I am assuming that your car is a turbo and as long as the R154 that you got came from a 08/88 or later car, then your speedo will be...

Jake, I agree 100% with what you are saying about ripping the bolts out of the sheet metal, but your strut towers would have to move a lot inorder to do that and you would have other problems to worry about then bolts ripped out of the sheet metal. I do think and agree with what was stated...

there is not a stop on the motor that is adjustable. The way to limit the opening height and yet retain the closing height is to rework the throw arm on the motor and the linkage rod that connects between the throw arm and the head light bucket assembley.

I get 28 do to the fact that I have a full stand alone system and have it tuned so that under cruise conditions I have 40 degrees of total ign. advance and also between 17:1 to 18:1 afr constant. If I turn the system to close loop active, I only get in the 22 to 24 miles/gallons range. We...