There is a relay and that is what I was thinking sort of cause they are not like your standard normal relay in the way that they operate. Haven't checked it yet, was planing on doing that today.
Deffinitly not a vacuum problem. Its that the computer is not turning on right away. So my guess...
tekdeus: Thanks for the link. I have seen them and just forgot about it.
That is the same thing that I am building myself. You are going to need the toe rods also most likely. One problem with the rear suspension design on our cars is that you cant adjust one (camber or toe) with out...
Has anyone ever had this problem and or know what could be wrong?
Here it is. Anytime that I go to turn the cruise control on after the car has been off, it wont turn on right away. It can take anywhere from 30sec. to 10 min. for the light to come on on the dash. once it turns on the first...
it will put it back to stock. The stock psi of 6.5 is not just controled by the wastegate. The wastegate is actually around 9psi of so. Other restrictions in the exhaust and IC piping cut this back to around 6.5, but again yes this will bring it back to stock.
no, there is not to much need for the squirters. There are some that say that you need them and other that say that you dont. I have personally turbo charged a number of different engines that didn't have them and I have never had a problem as long as you have a very good tune on the motor. In...
Yes, the greater contact area does cause more friction and therefore more loss but straight cut gear sets are stronger. The thrust loading is also something that causes a strength issue. A straigh cut gear is flat out better and cheaper to make and the only reason why auto manufactures dont use...
Thats what I said, about how cares if the fans come one if the thermostate is stuck closed.
Also, you are right and I was wrong about the thermostat blocking th bypass. I was picturing in my head the thermostat from my 1UZ V8 which does block the bypass fully and will over heat the motor in...
Yeah, you can swap the turbine housings. You may need to redrill the dowel pin hole that set the clocking of the housing.
The supra had a bigger compressor wheel. This is why the Supra CT-26 is an upgrade for the MR2. IIRC, the MR2 guys just put thier turbine housing in the Supra turbo and...
most of the frictional losses are in the gears and the diff. It the drag from the gear tooth contact that does it. The bad part is in th diff itself, the power has to make a 90 deg. turn. This is why FWD cars have a lower lose.
No matter how much you try to over come it, the more power input...
The reason for the actual losses increasing as the power increases is because as the input power increases, the friction generated in the entire drivetrain also increase due to the high input loads and there for uses up more power to overcome the friction.
This can easily be tested and...
Turbine wheel size is not nearly important as turbine A/R ratio.
Honda's like what you are talking about mostly use A/R ratio's in the area of .48 where I'll bet that the supra CT-26 in in the neighborhood of somewhere around .7_ or .8_ or so. Even the MR2 CT-26 has a smaller A/R ratio then...
Yes, you are right for the most part. The only thing that is only partically correct is the part of twins being for reduced lag. This is only true when it is set up in a twin sequential on smaller displacemint engines. Engines larger then about 3.5L can actually bennifit from true twins do to...
Probably would work but most likely lag real bad and not build a hole lot of boost.
The turbine side is probably too big for 1.5L's worth of motor to get a decent spool.
I could be wrong about this, but haven't really took the time to think about it.
If you have the means and the time...
I haven't really looked into the hole MKIV parts swap stuff. So I am not really sure. Swaping the lexus stuff will most likely be somewhat of a bennifit, but not worth the hasal. The lexus part that you are talking about are basically the same as the MKIV N/A brakes. Now chances are, swapping...
check and clean all the battery connections.
Dont worry about the little brown clip. if that was not connected, you wouldn't get the rapid clicking.
If all connections are tight and clean, then its either the started itself or the battery. Also the battery can have 12v in it and still not...
Not necesserially, clamping force is only part of the over all picture. Brake torque is what you are really after.
The caliper alone does not determine the clamping force. The mastercylinder bore size, brake booster diameter, and peddle ratio all play rolls along with the caliper in...
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