The only thing that I had to mod was the throttle cable bracket on top of the motor. Mine is a GE setup intake linkage and manifold. I am not sure if the GTE linkage need to be modded.
89Turbo: the universal wire sets will not work on the GTE coils. Well they will if you bend in the end, but...
I tried that, it didn't work on mine. now this might work with some aftermarket wires as some tend to be a bit long.
I actually ended up carefully taking the coil ends off of the turbo wires and cutting the NA wires to length and reinstalling the ends on the cut wires.
If it has the 1uzfe motor and only the two piston calipers, its most likely an LS400. yeah, the brakes are beefier then ours, but not worth the work to adapt them. The later (98+) LS and GS 430 with the 3uzfe cars did have 4piston brakes and would be better if every bit of the system was...
900 cfm at sealevel is = to roughly 70lbs/min
Being that on average a motor requires about 10lbs/min to produce 100hp
Having said all that, 900 cfm would equate out to around 700hp.
you cant move the thermostat from its location do to the fact that it blocks the internal by-pass when it opens. if the by-pass port is not blocked when the thermostat is open, you run a very high risk of overheating the engine because a portion of the coolent will not go though the radiator...
The driveshaft has nothing to do with the ABS sensor or sysem. Look at the picture below. As for not working, I am not sure, but I do know that the ABS light will be on and the system will be in fault mode, now what will actually happen, I am not sure.
The ABS sensor is mounted un top in the middle of the extension (tailshaft) housing on MKIII W58 tranny's. It actually read from the reverse gear. So if you would need a MKIII ABS equiped extension housing to keep the ABS functional
no, the stock ecu will not work under boost. Well up to about 1 to 2 psi, and that is about it. Now there is a little trick that you can do by modding the stock airflow meter so that you can run larger injectors, and there for be less likely to go lean when under boost. Its not the best way to...
either or will be fine. The E-mang. would probably be easier to use and tune if you have never had any experiance with stand alone systems. Plus, there is probably more people out there that know how to use that tuning wise if you are not up for doing it youself that can tune the car for you. If...
Also about the oil coolers, pretty much most any aftermarket one is better then none or the stock type setup. As for pricing, not really sure as I have not really priced them in some time cause I dont have much problem finding RZ-7 units. Just make sure if you do pick up an aftermarket unit that...
no prob....
yeah, I was NA/T for a while, setup was a stock GE motor with a Titan Motorsports MLS HG and all stock turbo and IC, but I built my own 3" DP and 2.5" IC hardpips. I was running a full stand alone though. (only because I had it sitting there from a past RX-7 that got totaled). now...
If you are talking about putting the turbo on with out doing any fuel system changes for the time being, then no. The stock system has no way to increase fuel while under boost. So the moment that it goes to positive pressure you will start to lean out and then you can say bye bye engine...
yes the GTE electronics are better, but it can be done reliably as he is doing it as long as the tuning is spot on.
Oil cooler is a good thing, but dont was your time with the stock toyota setup, it is usuless by design. The stock cooler is to small to be an inline unit and by-passing a...
There is the hose that you replaced, and on that same fitting where it comes out of the head, there is another hose that connect to the coolent pipe that runs from the water pump housing back. There is also the other heater hose that come out of the firewall by the brake booster and connects to...
I am assuming that being that this is in the 7MGTE section that your car is a turbo, a common problem on them is the CPS (Crank Possition Sensor) plug and causing a no spark condition. usually a quick giggle of the plug will get it working, if this does then best be is to rewire it with a new...
most likely a rod knock.
The fuel octane or small lack there of should not cause detonation when the engine is under no load. If detonation is going to accure, its only most likely going to accure when torque is at its highest and the engine is under heavy load.
Yes the ballancer issue is...
Nice work, i love it! I'd deffinitly be down for one depending on if and when the GB happens.
One thing that might be worth considering with any possible design changes is in the rear mounts, implementing a way to use the stock bolts, springs and E-clips locked into the brace just as they are...
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