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All too true, (Read it in MOTOR mag) the heated O2's are done so to help the computer get into 'closed loop' operation quicker. That's all. But on 1996 and newer (OBDII) vehicles, the computer monitors the heater too, and failure will set a code. Lead KILLS O2's, real fast.

Well, very true that a 'slightly' bent rim can cause shimmies and vibration. And it sucks to hit a pothole or tap a curb and bend one just a tad. Over the years, with different cars, I've had to replace some. Last year had to get 4, cause I could not find a replacement one for the really cool...

Oh, oh, I failed to read the original thread closely. He said he had bolts left over. Hmm......hope nothing falls out or blows up. Also...on many apllication (like not too stressful ones) you can always go with a fully threaded bolt, as the shank is not whats keeping the parts tight...

Well then, he'll have to do the same as you (buying some from store). I believe he (we all) can follow this 'rule of thumb' for 'most' applications. For the amount of threads 'threaded' into the hole, you want approx 50% more than the diameter of the fastener. ie: 8mm diameter bolt should...

OK...for some REAL help, I'll tell you what to do, NOT what happened to me last summer at band camp !!!!!!!!!! I'll write it as if you are a noob (tho you may not be, but some reading this will be). My experience has been that the resistor does not completely fail, only 1-2 of the coils...

Well, it seems the first 2 responces weren't very helpfull :3d_frown: I have hunted around the books and the net (for me too, just to have a reference place to go for thr future), but found nothing that will tell the exact lengths. You can figure the size and thread pretty easy ! You'll...

So far, not on my MKIII. But on a customers. Upper arm bushings. Most people on these forums use the poly bushings. I have always used the regular replacement ones, as they tend to not be as 'stiff ' as the polys. You need to have it aligned afterwards. Best to do all the bushings at one...

Block test is for BHG. The shop uses a chemical and a big glass thingy and sucks up some vapor from the radiator. It will tell if there is exhaust vapor in the cooling system. Fan needs to be good, and a shroud is a MUST when you dont use electric fan.

Uh...stop that street racing ?? Problem solved ! :biglaugh:

Yes, bad, (or getting bad) bushings will certainly cause what you are experiencing. Been there, done that, on several cars and trucks.

Boys, boys, stop that ! This minute !! The item in question is the 'inside' temp sensor for the automatic temp control. It has a tiny bit of vacuum to 'draw' air over the sensor to help the computer keep the inside car temp at the setting chosen. Now go back to bed !!! Get some sleep, and...

Just pull the vacuum line off the vsv and put it to the heater water valve all winter. The valve is always open any way (letting water flow thru thwe core), except when the temp is set to 65*. Read, read read the TSRM. For those that have to SEE everything for themselves, test it on a good...

The swap is a good thing. Go for it ! The rear end ratios are different for n/a & turbo, nit auto & 5 speed. Higher ratio for n/a, as the hp's are 32 difference. helps it get going easier.

Many many posts on this subject. I personally have given this info at least 5 x. Search it down !

It is pricey, but I too went with the factory hose. Why???(you ask)...because I'll never have to replace it again.

Any good mechanic can determine if its the valves or rings, without a teardown. Run compression test. Then may be needed to put an OZ of oil in the cylinders (thru the spark plug hole) that may have low overall pressure. That will tell if the rings are weak.

Buy yourself a mechanics stethoscope (most parts stores, Sears, tool trucks). Jack up the back end so both wheels are up. Use jackstands for safety. Have a friend help. Use stetho to listen to various components while in gear.

If "I" had to have it done to mine, I would take it out of the car, then drop it off at a "reputable" racing shop. Those guys do that sort of thing all the time for racers. They'll have the most experience to do it right. If its not done correctly, it won't last 6 months. 20 years ago I...

I'd see about rebuilding your first. You know what you've got there. With a used one, you don't know where its been (or who with). You are NOT going to get a NEW one ($$$$$$$$$$$$$). The carrier bearing went out in mine. Had them and seals replaced for $387 (total) in Florida back in 2001.

A shop (or you) could pull it out and weld it (have it welded). Or go to the bone yard and get one off a wreck. :icon_bigg