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Nice work. Keep us posted.

Didn't get the PM? ::shrug::

Thanks, guys. Nothing fancy or overly erudite about it, just a simple walk-through. I just wanted to post this to show that no serious tools, time or brainpower was required to get the 'clunk' out.

PS- Do you have 550cc injectors to match the Lexus housing? Otherwise, you're probably getting AFR issues as well.

The code 31 indicates that there is an issue with the afm sensor, so the Lexus housing shouldn't cause this. The sensor is identical in both cars, so the afm plug should fit the sensor, no issues. It is common for these afm's to get fouled up over time. There is no good way to clean the...

Bought mine from Advance for a great price after online rebate. Mine was in slightly better shape. Good call on rebuilding your self. Hey when you get a chance, pm me your address. I need to ship you out that console cover.

Nice.

I used a fork under the needle to pull up straight without putting any sideload on the needle shafts. And you don't have to unscrew the faces till you get the needles off. Try not to rotate the shafts after removing the needles, and take a pic of it prior to removal. I always found it easiest...

Swapped out my center support bearing. yay.

Hey guys, I decided to do a bearing swap writeup with pictures, simply because I hadn't seen one. To begin with, I should say, that I didn't really notice any vibrations while driving the car before beginning this. It was simply a logical repair to do while the driveshaft was out for clutch...

So I finally got home from a 9 day trip, and found a bunch of parts waiting for me. Took the flywheel back to the machine shop to have it checked; I wanted to make sure the pressure plate issue was just a fluke, and not an uneven mating surface. Then I replaced my driveshaft support bearing...

So about that clutch job... Immediately upon startup, i had a bad vibration. My immediate guess was that the pressure plate was out of balance. So i finally got around to re-removing the tranny, and pulling the clutch for balancing. But i find this: Guess it wasnt a balance issue. This was...

It's hard to tell, since your wiring is compromised. My question is- Why did the car sit for 2 years? Was there a repair that it needed? I bought my '89 a couple months ago, and it had sat for 7+ years. I did all the same pre-start repairs as you, plus the fuel filter. If any disassembly was...

That's what I hate about these unanswered threads. There's many occasions where a final post describing the resolution, would have helped the next guy, who properly goes through the search function to find an answer to his own problem.

Um, I'm hoping that in the past 6 1/2 months since this issue was last discussed, that cyanide54 has figured out the problem... However, we will probably never know. He hasn't logged onto Supramania since March.

The proper hex socket, along with a breaker bar always worked for me.

Correct. I tried a different brand of paint, because the front came out a shade darker than I wanted. If I could do it over, I would use the paint from the 2nd seller, and the clearcoat from the first.

Yes sir. I used a light coat of Bulldog prior to primer. I found that the rear paint seemed to 'outgas' a bit after about 2 weeks, so today, I redid the wetsanding, rubbing compound and polish. The front didn't seem to do this, but on that job, I used a 2-part clear. I'm sure it was better quality.

It's super easy, as long as you drain the tank through the bottom bolt first. The tank itself only weighs about~35lbs.

So, I got back in town yesterday, and my new fuel pump was waiting. Today, I got to work replacing the replacement fuel pump, and 1hr later, she's buttoned up and running great. I also replaced the brand new spliced-in connector because the one included with the original replacement had smaller...