Well, the charging system is simple. A few minutes with the TEWD and a meter should be all that's needed. And fwiw the alternator can be tested in situ.
If you drive like that on public streets I won't be disappointed if, as long as you were alone, they one day hose you out of a twisted mass of smoking metal into a bucket and melt what's left of your car down into tuna cans.
What is there to baffle? Measure each of the three inputs involved to determine which is causing the code. Simple. I'm guessing you only think you tested it. Kind of like how you were sure the code was AC related before...
Could be a climate control servo. They tend to go open loop with age and begin to chatter. If changing the temp set point to something other than where it's normally kept helps than that's likely the problem. Hopefully not as they're neither cheap nor easy to replace.
Closed loop A/F will always be around 14.7 although many of these engines tend to idle a bit leaner. What is the code and what makes you think it's AC related?
They do. Most fail at the hose connections where it gets brittle and cracks. The problem is Toyota doesn't sell the valve alone. It only comes with the bracket and actuator making it around $150. The Corolla/Prizm valve can be had aftermarket for about $30.
You are correct about how it works in that the VSV is closed when the temp is set to 65 and open when set to anything above although the coolant valve is designed to permit minute flow even when closed. Like all cars with such a valve its for MAX AC and testing on my car showed leaving it open...
As has been pointed out ABS isn't about stopping, it's about steering. And I don't think the OP is stupid. Just ignorant. Got a bad case of Dunning Kruger though...
I didn't try to change your mind because I know better. All I'll say is good luck because even more so than most youngsters you've got bigger problems to deal with than an old car. Here's hoping life doesn't beat you up too badly, or worse, before you finally come to your senses.
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