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The bubbling in the upper hose (mine did it before the bhg repair) happens from air in the system. Air rises to the highest place in the system. When you shut off the engine, and the coolant flow stops, there are hot spots due to some air in there. The coolant hits them and boils, creating...

If you back the timing to about 3-5* before the test, it lowers the NOx.:biglaugh:

I've removed a lot of screwed up fasteners over the last #%$!@#$ years. My first step here would be to use a 7/16" (same as 11mm) allen socket. I would grind/taper the tip as 'IJ' said, and smack it down into the fastener a bit, then try using a 1/2" breaker bar, real slow. The worst thing...

The VIN code stamped on the block near the oil filter. The 10th digit is the year 'code'. http://www.autoinsurancetips.com/vin.htm

I did my '89 n/a casually in 2 hours. The turbo may take longer if you must remove some things to get the rack out. Be sure to get a NEW washer (double connected one) for the high pressure "banjo" fitting, from the toy dealer ($2-5). Use a piece of NEW hose for the return line, with new...

Please 'peruse' the TSRM for quicker answers.:love: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/be/BE_010.html http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/be/BE_016.html :icon_razz

Its pretty difficult to warp the cast iron block. Was that a metal gasket? Yes....then did you have the block shaved to a very good finish??? The head AND block surfaces need to be extra fine for metal gasket. The misfire could be a # of other things. A spark plug wire may be good enough...

That's all fine...but....check out all the things I mentioned in my prior reply before you do...cause you don't want to be laughed out of the race because a hose blew, or it starts cutting out because a sparkplug wire breaks down (under heavy load). :love: your car, and treat it right. And...

Basically what HALSUPRAMK3 said at the end.

1st gear syncro??? or 'dog ears'??? I've had some chevy's with that problem. Once I got them apart, I found worn out syncro's and other items.

Well....foolish is what I will say !!! Welding the gears in your diff???? You just ruined the diff, and possibly the trans. $$$ wasted. I will say no more.

What he said ^^^^ 5w-50...too much index spread. My friend's dad was an engineer, in charge of jet engine development at Northrop (you know...B-2's and such) out here at Edwards AFB (you know, "The Right Stuff" movie). He started being an Amsoil dealer back when it began. I won't bore you...

If he's 'whining' alot about racing you, he has a "little weener" complex. You need to do a compression check on all the cylinders. New spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Run some "Techron" fuel system cleaner thru. (Get it at Wallymart for $6) Tires !!!! Fix ALL the oil leaks you can. New...

EGR (working properly) won't effect fuel mixture. If its inop, it won't either. 02 will effect mixture. Fuel cut should not cause your mixture to change and stay lean or rich when back to normal rpms. Your 02 can be bad, or starting to fail, and not set a code. My car ran much better with...

Just DON'T do it...unless you are only drag racing (tow in on trailer). You won't be able to go around a corner without damaging your tires, and eventually break something inside, like the axle. Been there, done that. I used to weld them up for off-roaders.

02 has ALOT to do with fuel mixture. You can put a new one in yourself for about $40-65. If the leak in the exhaust was serious, you would have come up with lean readings, and not rich ones. Those #s sound backwards. CO% would be something like 0.80, and HCs like 105. Calif Max HCs for my...

It's the rectangular (approx. 1/4" x 1/4" x 1") piece of metal that fits in the slot on the crank and the slot on the dampner. It keeps the dampner from spinning on the crank.

I'd try the master first.

If the slave is bad, it will leak fluid out to the world. If a master is bad, it 'might' leak fluid out to the world (and still work until the fluid level gets so low that air gets in).....or it might be letting the fluid leak internally, and not apply pressure to the slave. The fluid slips...

Well...duh...I was distracted:aigo: me bad..... Any way, what I said above also applies to clutch masters and slaves. I used to rebuild them all the time, cause the parts were way cheaper for the customer than new or reman, and I made the $$ in labor. If the kit is cheap, and the parts...