Well, 2 years ago I got caught in a hail storm (like this happens every 50 years here), and the brittle molding on my '89 chipped. It all looked like crap.
The body shop ordered them all (6 pieces) from Toyota dealer. They were $614 installed. The labor was only $80 of that.
But...the car...
You can't miss it. Its the loose dangly thing on the t-stat. Just snip it off with some sidecutters. Some people drill the little hole out to 4mm (3/16").
Just make sure you install the t-stat correctly, with the spring towards the engine, and the hole up top. AND....a NEW rubber t-stat seal.
Stock is 195*. I run it in the winter to get more heater. Its in the 20's at nite here. I run a 180* in the summer, to allow the engine to run cooler if it can. I always cut that little toggle off it too. That way trapped air can escape to the radiator, and on out to the bottle.
Right !! Many newer cars (toyotas too) have a 'shallow' cap. You need the 'deep' one. They are small diameter (not big like a chevy, ford, etc), and look the same, except if you look close, the one you need is taller/deeper, to seal on the radiator. Its only about a 1/2" difference.
Lancaster, L.A. County. Dyno tests required, 15mph, 25mph.:icon_sad:
You can find the same magnaflow universal cat we use, 13" length on the web. Here is example. I've seen cheaper. Then have it put in at muffler shop...
Not the diff. Wheels are independant of the diff. Do what cjsupra90 said about tipping(pulling/pushing the wheel at the top, jacked up of course.
S/B no play.
I know caps, its my job to. Pull your cap off and hold it up like its on the radiator. There is is little valve on the very bottom. On our cars, the valve is suppose to have a small spring to hold it snug against the black rubber seal.
Many caps (for different cars) of the same size don't...
You can find the ISHINO (as I mentioned in my earlier post) set for about $150. It is OEM, and packaged from the factory. It's WAY cheaper than buying the gaskets seperate.
After you fix whatever on the evap system, You could have it tested again to see where your #s are now that the 02 wiring is fixed.
The sensor may be covered with carbon now, from running so rich. The test will tell.
After the test, you may pass, or have better #s. Then an 02 and/or cat may...
Nope...haven't ever seen a bearing give a wobble. They squeel, whine, or grind. They even let the wheel camber get negative. Sounds like a bent hub, or spindle.
Remove the wheel, put a couple of lugnuts back on to hold the rotor in place, and let it idle in gear. (be sure to have both...
By those #s, it is obvious that your car is running WAY to rich. The NOx is low because it is so rich. The HCs are high due to the rich condition.\I'd say you have more problems than just an 02 sensor.
And very likely the cat conv. is now shot.
Does it run and idle real good?? if not...
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