Search results

Make sure you have vacuum to the water valve at firewall on passenger side. Bypass vsv if necessary. see.... http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7971&highlight=heater+cold

http://www.suprasport.com/product.asp?itemid=144

The 3rd gasket it there to keep debri out of the valley and spark plug holes. It does not keep oil out. The oil is coming from one or both of the valve covers. Replace those gaskets per other threads, and you'll eliminate the oil.:icon_razz

Seems like a great idea, and good design. Just don't see the need for me, or the average street driver.

Let this be a lesson to all who read this. Next time you open the hood, spray some WD40 (or any penetrant) on the nut and the threads. Do so every so often to prevent Supra5MGTE's problem happening to you. For years, and on numerous used cars, I have saved myself some of these problems by...

I think it will work. You could always call the Toyota Dealer and ask if they are thre same part #.

Boneyard will be cheapest for the assy. A new bearing with the pulley, at Carquest was $28 (my shop price). I went to the bearing house and got just the bearing for $14.:biglaugh:

The switch is expensive from the dealer, like $250. maybe a boneyard might have one.:icon_razz

Find the answer to your "winter driving blues" here.:biglaugh: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9005

Well...there have several threads on traction and driveability in snow:biglaugh: I quess this guy did a "work-a-round".:evil2:

I've seen many cars and trucks with problems like you describe. First check the tires and rims for true-ness. Spin them and look to see if there is any side movement of the tread. Then look closely at the rim at the bead edge, for out of round, side play. Second...a worn upper or lower...

When all surfaces look good, I don't use sealer. I only use sealer if the manufacturer calls for it, or....if there was a problem, and thats why its being repair. ei: Intake maifold gasket leak.

I believe your bearings are merged to the crank. Often when a bearing spins loose from the rod & cap, they will heat up and stick (like welding) to the crank.:nono:

Just plug the vacuum line from the engine to the heater water valve(if it works) and forget about it. The only time the valve is closed is when you have the temp setting to 65*.

Get a can of spray gasket sealer, at any auto parts store.

The 'normal' spring setup is what you've stated. Stiffer front due to the weight of the front end, with the engine. Normally, hitting dips and bumps, the weight that is 'plunged' into the dip would allow the car to bottom out more often with softer springs. The springs are what hold the car...

I got my rebuilt one 2 years ago at Carquest for $275. The electronic sensor started in late '89. My 03/89 dated car does not have one. Replacing the rack is not a difficult job.

DON'T....you will overstress the joints and axles. Then...something will break. But...if you have lots of $$$ to burn, go ahead. Tires won't last very long !! I welded up the spider gears inside a ford 4x4 once, front & rear. It was a mud pulling contest truck. Only used in dirt & mud...

Well, one way is to use much longer vacuum and coolant hoses. Use some of that colored flexible plastic wiring loom stuff, and run bunches of them in the direction they need to go, then feed them out as you need to the hook up place. Do the same for all wiring that is not dependant on a...

Yea, you can remove the whole assy, cap off the vacuum at the metal line from the engine. Just get a hose from a parts house that is curved to go straight into the heater core. As everyone said, the valve was designed to stay open except during the coldest (65*) setting on the a/c controls.