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Mine, and many more had the same symptoms. After much denial, and fooling around trying to find problem, we all came to the same repair....BHG.:icon_evil Our engines develope a small leak that allows combustion gas to leak into the cooling system, usually around the #6 cyl. That...

Got my rebuilt one at carquest 2 1/2 years ago for $250. Put it in easily in 2 hrs, on my back, in the driveway (summer).:biglaugh:

Well...I have actually taken the door panel off mine and have actually seen in there. I cleaned everything with brake cleaner spray and a 1" paint brush, then let it dry for 30 min. I then used some synthetic brake caliper grease to lube things. (After having repaired and adjusted and...

The tool trucks (snapon, matco, mac) carry a special socket that is made to take off lugnuts that have been stripped (a regular socket won't work). i have used it to remove some of those gorilla lugnuts, when customer lost key.

Egr and ISC gaskets did not come in my set. Get them now, as I had to wait another day to finish. ISC was dealer only.

The contact in the ignition switch that 'thinks' the key is still in there. Try in/outing it a few times to see if makes a difference. Sprays into the cylinder won't help because the problem will be in the electrical switch, not the lock portion.

I have not tried one. But...I have seen them in other cars, and read all about them in some mags. I will buy one if I ever need to replace mine. It seems to be the way to go.

Don't loosen the caps. Use a coat hanger and make a little hook to slip in beside the camshaft, then pull out, and slide it 180* around and pull, working the seal out. Put a coating of motor oil on the new seal, all over it, and position into place, and use the old seal and small hammer to tap...

I heard Autozone now has hatch supports. Dealer wanted $150 ea 3 yrs ago. I found some at Pepboys that I made work by grinding the mounting bracket off the factory ones, and bolting it to the new generics. Still working great. Only $25 ea.:biglaugh:

Yep...87 on the pump sign, per 1989 owners manual, pg. 110. TURBO or N/A. It also says to use 91 if you want better performance. I'm sure by that they mean less pinging during hard acceleration, so the timing won't be retarded by the ECU when the knock sensor picks it up.

Part it out since there's body damage. I'm sure folks here will be happy to get some pieces.:icon_razz

I read all the auto repair industry mags. The USA one is likely the 'new & improved' one. Either will serve you well. I would definetly use 2 that are the same, for matching performance. The advertisements show that the USA ones are supposedly sturdier, with better everything. They are...

http://www.toyota-automotive-store.com/

You've touched upon something there ! The exhaust cooler works by routing the exhaust so that it is in contact with the head at the back. That portion has a water passage inside to cool it. So....if it is all removed and blocked off, then it should theoretically be cooler in that area. But...

TONY ^^^ Is that avatar photo of you a recent one, or from your younger days ???:biglaugh:

A pry bar can work. I'd have to look at mine (and its to cold and rainy right now) to see if you can use some very big channel locks to 'squeeze' it to see the play. Our car's lower joint does not get real worn, like I've seen many upper joints on chevy, ford, etc.

The sensor in the coolant system on the thermostat housing has the timmer built in. It's actually just a heat sensitive switch that stops completing the circuit when it reaches a pre-determined temp, which is caused by an electical heating element inside the switch. These units are not...

Carquest, Napa, Toyota dealer listed here in forum.

Well, if it appears to be tight, and not so VERY loose when you jack up the car to check it, then it may be ok for a few 100 more miles.

Just find the local (est) race shop around and ask who they recommend to weld for you.