Right, the crank can be at TDC when you time it and can be off. It's a common mistake. One question though is whether or not the car has ran before that you are aware off. What happened since then? Alot of times if you get a little water in the distributor that can cause problems like you...
Ah, a distributor. Explains the problem even better. Sounds like you timed the distributor by putting the #1 cyl at TDC on the exhaust stroke, 180 degrees off. Make sure the #1 cyl is TDC on compression and then re-time the distributor.
Sounds like the ignition timing is out of spec. May have something to do with the IGN lead missing. I do not know exactly what you did but to temp fix that issue but just "tapping" wires together does not sound very good.
I am building a track and street car. Fact is though If I need to go through a rain storm I have another car to do it in. AC is useless I never use it, period. Heaters are not needed in a car that doesn't see winter. Plush interiors and expensive paint jobs are simply impractical. I see too...
I regret to inform you guys my build up has reached a slowing point. I am saving money for a transmission and for going back to school for becoming possibly a materials engineer. I also have to build an engine for my girlfriend's 91 VR4. Of course, at her expense....
The cam will be the TPIS ZL11X.
Duration: 220 - Intake / 224 - Exhaust
Lift: 0.557" Intake / 0.558" Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 112
This is the "biggest" cam TPIS sells without the need for different pistons or flycutting the stock ones.
I am not using wipers. I just need to decide whether or not to use the combination switch for all of my switch functions or should I just use toggle switches on the dash.
I have a decision to make. Do I use the combination switch on the steering column for the majority of my functions? I will no longer be using wipers, but it's either the steering column or switchs on the dash for lights, blinkers and any other functions that require switches.
When I remove the brace it will be because structurally speaking it is no longer needed. I do not beleive the brace is meant to be fully welded, meaning adding welds may not make it safer from a side impact perspective.
I understood ya perfectly Nash. I actually just finished painting my brace yesterday. I did not add to the welds however. I did think of doing it but decided not to because I likely will not even use the brace in the future.
Looks like you are using a semi-flat white. I do not know if duplicolor sells it, but Krylon makes a bunch of gloss paints and white is probably one of them. Just make sure you spray it absolutely even.
Gas smell is no bullshit. I have driven for 2 years with no charcoal canister on my Supra it never smelt like gas until... My injectors started randomly leaking from the fuel rail. That was a pain in the ass, had to drive it home knowing it was leaking fuel pretty bad. I would check for...
You can order from CSK or Advance Auto through this site I beleive: www.partsamerica.com. I would just get remanufactured calipers if you have no experience rebuilding them. Also, it's best to have compressed air to get the piston out.
I do not know what it is as my Supra never had a charcoal canister, EGR or any of those annoying vac lines on the intake manifold. However I do know it is not a fuel line if your car drives, so not a line off the J-tube. Whatever it is, you might want to get it away from your steering shaft...
Oh I just can't wait. 500hp on a car probably lighter than a Corvette, with a 3.9 differential ratio. Not to mention the steering response and handling I will get. I am just putsing with it though, can not be in a hurry.
Well, made more picture-worthy progress. Got the rotors cleaned up, along with a new steer rack in and new wheel bearings up front. Everything was cleaned and painted. I put it on the ground and the tires don't even compress under the weight. I can steer the tires easily but just turning one...
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