i have leaned out the maf due to the fact that the new one i bought was really rich. did i lean out too much?
the pics are from a cell phone so sorry for the quality but they have a tiny bit of orange build up.
motor is stock
some descriptions tell me its running too hot
title correction...
all are good to make lots of power.
but from 1997 on they had vvt-i (variable valve timing)
torque was advertised as 44.3 kgm (435 Nm, 320 lbft) to be later recited as 46.4 kgm (455 Nm, 335 lbft) with the introduction VVT-i in 1997
sorry i have no extras
I TOUCHED MY MOTOR TODAY!
it was a good feeling
im taping shit and cleaning my surfaces so i hope to have it ready to go in by next week
well my motor is not going to reach melting temps so do i still need the bung extender?
will the extender make my wideband to cold and cause it to read wrong?
i thought i could just weld in a bung and then screw in a wideband later and that was it!
ANY PICTURES OF WIDEBAND INSTALLED?
this is what i was thinking of using, is it a common size for wideband?
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-widebandoxygensensorbungstainless.php
i have seen some people that have it welded on the elbow ad others 2 feet down the pipe.
i would like to know a position that is not going to...
i have a ceramic coated coolez ct26 turbo back downpipe
best place to weld the wideband bung and any type of bung i should get? (i dont have a wideband and i dont know what i should buy)
any problems welding around ceramic coating with a mig?
should i weld it myself or is this a pro...
slow because i didnt want to work on it.
the front and oil pan are off but i still need to pull the head.
the rtv got behind the t-case and acted as a wedge so it wouldn't seal
rufus any other shops?
he told me last time he went there there was a year long waiting list
he said he would check...
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