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Totally agree...I know people who seem to have mechanical smarts but I wouldn't do anything they recommend at all. Hey, on the brighter side, you asked here and were given a definite answer :icon_razz

I know I have a very slight leak on my oil return line on my turbo. Exact same thing happens as you described. Could be something completely different though. Try and find out where it's pooling/burning off and that will give you at least a bit of an idea where it could be coming from.

I know a stock gasket is dead once you pull it out. It's got an HKS 1.5mm metal gasket on there now with ARP head studs. The thing should be bullet proof :icon_razz Yeah, I understand about the cleaning too. I'm meaning clean it out (as you described), DON'T run it...roll it back to where...

Sounds like a plan to me. Will probably have to run it on a short trip to the garage to get the swap done, do a rinse and repeat of the above after the swap only with nice oil. Just want to get rid of those sleepless nights worrying over my engine guts slowly wasting away.

So just basically leave it as it sits...don't run it, do the oil change, and keep it parked until I can swap heads is what I'm getting from that.

I've got a line on a new head...I just can't AFFORD it right now :( I don't want to rust the inside of my engine away while I try and scrounge up cash :(

It's a cracked head, already ripped things apart to check the gasket and all was fine. Retorqued and had no problems at all until the engine heated up and cooled down a few times. You suggesting to pretty much just idle the engine up to temperature to burn off the stuff out of the cylinder...

Title pretty much says it all...I've got coolant seeping in to cylinder 3. Question is basically what do I do in the meantime? I know I should do an oil change (obviously) to get rid of the contaminated oil, but what about the stuff in the cylinder? What can I do about that? I can't replace...

You have a sick sick mind to think of doing such things to your car just to see what would happen :icon_razz:icon_razz:icon_razz

I believe the car would run....just real crappy though dumping tons and tons of fuel in to compensate for no AFM readings. Why would you want to do such a thing?

I know mine has never been overheated, but if I go for the already done one, I'll definitely check that out.

I've taken a look around and seen the thread on "what to replace when doing a head gasket" job...just wondering if there's anything to add to that when replacing the entire head :icon_razz It looks like I'm gonna be needing a new one as mine's probably cracked :3d_frown: Also, I can pick...

Yeah, you can pretty much just run your car on the flat with the rad cap off for 5 to 10 minutes (depending on how much air is in the system) and it should take care of the waterfalls :)

Engine warm/cool (do you have an actual temp)? Does it bog only under heavy load (ie, low rpm in higher gear) or all the time? Bogging at any rpm or just low rpm? Need a bit more info still on this one.

The block/head wasn't shaved each time the head gasket was done. Only the very last time (as per receipts). The entire rebuild was done by the previous owner, so it's all a paper trail. Everything was prepped/rebuilt properly by a local engine shop that is apparently familiar with the engine...

*bump*

Exhaust is already taken care of with a BIC DDP and 3" all the way back (delete cats of course). Cams would be worth it though, but not the rest is what your saying?

Okay, here's the situation. I know I've got some sort of leaking in the head. It's signs of the beginning of a BHG, but everything has been done properly. HKS 1.5mm metal head gasket, torqued down properly with ARP hardware. You do the magical blue test tube radiator test and the magical...

Mine sounds a bit tickier than that...but not terribly...most of the time. It's odd...some days it's a lot worse than others. I JUST got the shims all measured and adjusted where necessary too.

EFI fuse pulled and crank it with the starter then? Sorry, just wasn't clear with the wording.