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Yeah, the studs should only be hand tightened.

Maybe a big vac leak? Also, check codes.

Drain it, refill with cheap oil (the thinner the better). With the spark plugs out, crank until you see oil pressure on your gauge (do this several times). Drain the oil and refill again. Repeat the cranking step a few more times, now replace the spark plugs and drive the car for a few...

Not too much power, for now. Turbo and fuel system are still stock so I'll have to draw the line at like 13-14 psi anyway...and as long as I'm staying under fuel cut, a stock HG should hold up, right? I know some people run more boost than that with the stocker but I think I'll be safe and put...

Just to follow up, I did end up using The Engine Shop and was very happy with their work. I had them resurface the head and install the helicoils for the exhaust manifold studs and both turned out well. Not sure what the RA was for the surface finish (I'm using a stock HG anyway) but visually...

"Instrument Cluster Coolant Gauge Sensor" as labeled on here is the one you're concerned with...

You dont have to if it's in spec, which you can check with a (machinist's) straight edge and feeler gauges. The maximum allowed warpage is .1 mm or .0039 in...but it's usually a good idea to just get it resurfaced since it should only cost about $70. And remember you need a machinist's...

Shouldn't have to if you're just getting another stock HG...

-Forged pistons and T4 turbo are nice but neither are really necessary for your power goals... -Lexus AFM to go with those 550's -Clutch upgrade probably a good idea at this point

But you are trying to refute the charges...why didn't you just plead not guilty?

You must have another problem then...it is widely agreed on that 0w-30 is a good choice.

The engine light could be a separate issue entirely...as people have said white smoke = coolant; also, there are no engine codes that are related to knocking except for code 52 (bad knock sensor), but I'm not sure if that would cause an audible knock in your case. You should still check your...

Thanks for all the advice, guys. So everyone does seem to think I should get a MHG. It's still a possibility, but I'm reluctant. If I did, I would have to park the car for several months while I save up the extra money (I don't make much up at school)... Gilsdorf, you asked about my plans...

Great, I'll check them out, thanks.

Well, it's nothing you all haven't seen before, but here's some pics of my recent BHG...came as a complete surprise since the previous owner said he put in a metal head gasket, and I have only been boosting about 9psi since I got the car. You can see the obvious problem with the head gasket...

Also, you wouldn't want to change out the bolts "one at a time" even if you used the TSRM sequence, you should never have 13 head bolts fully torqued and one at zero torque while you change it out (if that's what you meant). That's why the TSRM says to make several passes when...

Right, but fuel cut doesn't happen at a certain air/fuel ratio, but rather at a certain level of airflow (measured by frequency, as nosechunks pointed out). The conditions for fuel cut to occur actually have nothing to do with the amount of fuel present. "Full rich" was the OP's term, not...

Oh yeah, I didn't mean to say fuel cut wasn't a possibility, it threw me off cause I was thinking he meant "full rich" at max boost (the point where fuel cut would occur) which wouldn't make sense because fuel cut pulls, not adds fuel...so probably not what he was saying... So, want to see if...

Clear your codes, then go boosting and check them again. If you get a code 34 you're hitting fuel cut... But you say "it goes full rich"...that sure doesn't sound like fuel cut to me; on the other hand I'm pretty sure a boost leak can make you run rich...

Could be worn rings...