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I would stay with your current engine and replace the bearings, a 1j swap would take more time and money, especially if you're not doing the work yourself...they don't just drop in, there's more work involved... Although as CajunKenny said, you may or may not be able to get away with just...

Fair enough, thanks for pointing that out, I was actually unaware the difference was significant. Regardless, I still don't believe it's worth it to just upgrade the elbow; as mentioned earlier in this thread, the ones of known quality (such as the LIPP unit) are pretty expensive, and for just...

The only really worthwhile upgrade to the turbo elbow is eliminating it, by installing a downpipe that runs from the back of the turbo to the cat and eliminates that 90* angle, as made by Titan Motorsports, BIC, etc. I don't see much point in upgrading to a stainless steel elbow; it may look...

Yup, the torque spec was the only flaw...with a good tune people have pushed as much as 15psi of boost on a properly installed stock HG. Also, the downside to a metal head gasket (besides the cost) is it requires machining of the head and block to get it to seal properly. If you skip either of...

Not necessarily, seems like most of the AFM issues I've read about, the illumination of the check engine light actually is throttle dependent. Not that it really matters since the code remains stored regardless of whether the CEL stays on or not. Pretty sure your problem has to be...

Code 51 is a real-time error code, and I'm pretty sure it's the only one...

You don't need a metal head gasket if keeping it stock. A stock Toyota HG torqued to 75 ft-lbs should be more than adequate for your needs. The only problem with the head gaskets on these cars is that they were only torqued to 58 ft-lbs from the factory, which we know now wasn't enough...

Well it's not "inevitable" that it's gonna blow...unless something else is wrong, as people have already said. If one isn't planning to up the boost more than a few psi (which I'm guessing is the case since the OP said he just wanted a "super reliable daily driver") then a Toyota HG is a...

+B and Fp

Yeah that is possible actually (should have thought of that since I had the same thing happen to me) but from what I've seen that's much less common than having a boost leak... You can test the wastegate actuator though, then you will be able to rule out (or pinpoint) your wastegate as the...

Only 4psi originally? You must have a boost leak, further shimming of the wastegate would just be a band-aid for the real problem (and not a good idea)

That's good to hear, in the future you might wanna do it the way Poodles suggested though; I've read at least one story of someone putting in the full 3.2 quarts and it was too much...in their case it blew it out the rear seal if I remember right...

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19718

Is the P/S reservoir the original? It probably needs to be taken out and cleaned with brake cleaner (especially the screen at the bottom), could be keeping the pump from getting fluid. Flushing the whole system is also a good idea.

Check for codes.

Yeah, the backfire is most likely a symptom of the same problem...since those are often caused by running rich...

This is good advice. You really don't want to take any chances here...

I would bleed the cooling system first, just to rule that out... Personally haven't heard about any problems with the Pro Sport gauges...

Yes...re-torquing is necessary after putting in a new headgasket, and you don't know if whoever replaced it remembered to do that. Although if the head gasket is already blown/leaking, re-torquing won't fix it...but it sounds like that isn't the case for you...

Whoever wrote about this "reinforcing spring" was probably just referring to something in the composition of the hose...I've never heard of a lower radiator hose, or any hose for that matter, having an actual "spring" inside of it. You'll be fine with a normal radiator hose. "Squishy spots"...