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That's just a coincidence...

Not "limp mode" like he's experiencing...Code 52 will only cause timing to be retarded, and fuel mixture enriched. The motor will still rev all the way to redline... You should definitely do the rewire first, it usually (not always) is enough to fix a code 52. If it doesn't fix it then one...

If the AFM is good and you're still getting code 31, there could be a bad/loose connection at the AFM plug...try replacing the plug.

Yeah it's safe...you'll just be running really rich, shouldn't hurt anything.

All those codes after a fresh rebuild? Some of them might be leftover...you should try clearing the codes by pulling the EFI fuse for 30 seconds, then drive around for awhile and re-check to see which ones are still there. However, I'm pretty sure none of these codes except the code 31 could...

Whoops, I was even thinking about that as I was writing that post but somehow it got left out; good catch.

When the check engine light comes on it means you've thrown an engine error code, and the code remains stored from then on (at least until you reset the ECU), whether or not the check engine light stays on. So you should check your codes, that will give you (and everyone else on here) a lot...

The knock sensors are on the driver's side of the block. They have green plugs going into them, can't miss 'em. The front knock sensor can be easily accessed by removing the alternator, and to get at the rear sensor you have to remove the starter. It's usually the wiring though...plus even...

Yeah vac should be 17-21 inHg http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/TechTips/vacuum_gauge_readings.aspx Edit: inHg not mmHg

The code 52 couldn't be causing the hesitation/miss...it doesn't cause timing to be "all over the place" it just retards timing, also makes you run pig rich. The knock sensor might be fine, it's more likely the wiring that's at fault, but I would count on it being one of the two... The only...

Check for a boost leak

That's interesting, I had heard it was possible to make an aftermarket wastegate work but I didn't know it was that doable...

Yeah the metal shards do point to a dead pump. Besides you've done pretty much everything to make sure there's no restriction...bleeding it is good just to make sure you get all the metal out of there, but I don't see it fixing your problem if nothing else you've done has. Well at least you'll...

It still sounds like the fluid isnt flowing how it should...only possibilities I can think of are 1)Bad P/S pump: You said it whines sometimes, which is a symptom of fluid starvation...which can cause pumps to go out... 2)The reservoir screen is still dirty: I know you said you cleaned the...

Nothing is wrong with it necessarily, but every time I've read about someone having a clogged radiator, it was the original one. Even if it's not the sole cause of your overheating problems, your 20-year-old stock radiator sure isn't helping the situation. Especially considering the issues...

Yeah I forgot to update this thread, it did turn out to be the wastegate. I guess my actuator spring was really worn out and I stretched it out by shimming it, then when I put it back it was too weak to do its job and hold the wastegate closed. I actually ended up fixing it by shimming it back...

What about your radiator? Is it the original one? If so then it could be your problem...there's no way a missing fan shroud could cause your cooling system to fail.

Those JDM engines aren't all they're cracked up to be...they're supposedly "low-mileage" and all but many people have had problems with them. If you put one in without tearing it down and inspecting it (you did say you "dropped it in") then it's really hit or miss if it's a decent engine or...

Well your problem is temperature-dependent...and you're throwing a code for Intake Air Temp sensor...seems like you should fix the code first.

check for codes