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+2 Thats desktop worthy.

chi chi?? aussie bling?

Mine never spun on cranking, and barely/ doesn't move at idle. Even if it did I don't think theres enough load to cause an issue, thats what assembly lube/dry starts is for in the first place. Each to his own, but what does the manual say:rolleyes:

Make sure they are cleaned out, the big thing is to make sure they are threaded in the whole way, without using force.

But the SS adds bling in there;)

I think he meant to get 3volts, wire a couple of AA's(1.5volts) in series.

More importantly, who cares what we think, what do you like?

The thermal blanket keeps heat in... But thats on the surface, nothing touches the hood but air.

Oh I know turbos get much hotter. But with a sheild and what not, I'm sure not that much radiates but I honestly don't know. Who wants to be the first to try it:naughty:

Yah that seems to be a bit much IMO. I just did dry starts, and then spun it by hand a few times and fired her up and let it idle.

Forget it, I know how to read mic's I don't know why I'm asking.

Those are both the same, first set is 180 thou, second set both are 18 thou.???

I don't mind it, but I'm a sucker for white. Now you just gotta paint your car white;) haha.

I must be misunderstanding you here, no need to put a 0 infront of .18? That is .018 taken off, not .18, correct? Metric FTL, and I'm Canadian lol.

Make sure you cholk at least one or two of you wheels, if your getting under it. From the sounds of it though I would say your MC or slave is bypassing.(fubar)

Temperature Resistance Range: -40°C to +107°C(-40°F to +225°F) Thats from there site. How hot does it get under there?

Can you put it into gear with the engine off?

Did you check your brake fluid when you parked it? It is normal for the brake fluid level to drop slowly under normal operation.

Maybe the resistance is calculated with them operating, when the coil is warm?? Just tossin' that out there.

I'll be moving to the Aurora site in about 10 days.