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Yah my idle bounces around 14-15, and about 16 lean cruise;) thats fuel economy. My engine also pulls 25in/hg, maybe that has to do with GE pistons, and valve lash in spec. I would say your AFR's are right on the button so I wouldn't worry about that. But the vacum seems a little low.

Pretty sure it's no axial play, minium radial play. How are you getting engine oil in the AFM, that blows my mind. As jdub stated, I would be looking at the oil feed/return lines. The turbo I bet has nothing to do with it. Infact I would do everything jdub stated;) Boost leak...

Also curious, our diffs specific. If reusing the ring and pinion ect, then how do you break in the friction discs/bearing?

Tight fit, JB weld...:sarcasm::cry::biglaugh::3d_frown::aigo::icon_bigg Held 15psi no prob, my options were limited up here:icon_frow

Exactly the same, it's like they designed the maft pro to fit right in there, tucks away so perfectly eh? Maybe our harnesses were different, I'm sure theres no adverse effects of having longer wires.

You only have to cut the R7 resistor if your want to do timing monitor. It is not a pre-requisit of Speed denisty. Only a option. Heres the threadhttp://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43848---Still waiting on more Dr.:) Not much of a computer guy but under "System" it sais...

Crazy! I had to extend mine but it's only 2 wires, not a real hassel. I also had to extend the wires for my MAP sensor too(3wires), mounted below the brake/clutch MC's.

Maybe consider a set of low mile used?

Oh K. Why not just pick where you want the AIT sensor pull that pipe and bring it to a shop somewhere close to you? I'm sure if you ask nice someone would do it for free if you had the bung. I put mine in the front right kinda near the NA PS resivoir.(ETS pipes). Had to lengthen all the wires...

I spent a hair over a grand(CDN) shipped for mine. Megan's...

I would assume the minium to get the head/deck true. Then pick your headgasket, not the other way around.

Is that for a WB by any chance? I would personally drill right before the turbo, on the manifold. Did you say removing the turbo is not a option? Well than don't drill squat until it is.

I have no problems with connecting with Vista. But after I cut the R7 resistor for timing monitor, I have to do a few unique steps to get it to connect:( Labtop is a priceless tool when tuning, its faster, and no to mention the data logging....WOW

2 quick q's Whats AFC mode? What welding do you need for the MAP sensor? EDIT: OHHH!, do you mean welding for the temp sensor?

No shit!, just don't expect everyone to like it. "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind." -Dr. Seuss

Mine is 86.5 GE-T, feel free to ask. Pretty sure the 86.5 is treated as any pre 89. I may be wrong but I haven't ran into any differences in ordering turbo parts for a 87. Cheers, goodluck.

A good practise is also to pull your spark plugs and EFI fuse and crank until your see oil pressure on the gauge. You don't have to pull your spark plugs but if you do you have almost no load on your rod bearing. Its just good peace of mind instead of that nail biting first 2-3 seconds starring...

+!:biglaugh: Ahh that fluid doesn't look too bad. jdub, why do you say it would leak now? Isn't it cheaper to buy new calipers than properly rebuilding these days?

I would say the main reason is to preserve the hood paint. Second I would go with sound dampner. Never heard of a "Fire Banket" on a hood, sorry.

Your best friend http://cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=26