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Auto's always best for turbocharged drag racing. On the original topic: For me, the first 30-40 lbs or so of weight reduction really needs to come out of the driver's seat. :p

Well, I calculate an effective compression ratio at 15 PSI boost (Which most people think is fairly safe on a reasonably built 7M-GTE with pump gas) of about 17:1 (16.9something) I get about the same (Or a smidgen lower) effective compression ratio calculated for 6PSI on 12:1 static...

Note that that downpipe is only applicable if you get the upgraded CT-26. That may be the cheaper way to go, but not necessarily the best, since you'll be restricted to either lots of lag from clipping the exhaust wheel, or running out of breath at higher RPM due to the exhaust turbine...

Didn't think that it would be hard. The CC unit isn't that complicated. Congratulations!

I could fix it, but it's a lot of shipping cost. :D Really, they're not that complicated, I'd think that anyone who can handle a soldering iron could probably trouble-shoot it and get it working for you.

Well, I want to be driving this car in June, so waiting until then for pistons isn't something that I'm eager to do. @egesledder: My measurements said that one of my bores is slightly too much out of round as well, but I can ask the machine shop what they think.

Well, had my conversation with Aaron. The Probes are indeed backordered, so the next choice would be the Arias, but at $680, this is starting to tip the money scales further than I wanted. I'm already way over initial budget (Gee, I wonder why...) @AJ: If "Made in the USA" were a big selling...

Well, I'm going through the trouble of building a motor, and I really don't want it to fail because of a cheap hose. Specific gravity is easy to measure, you just need an accurate scale and a bowl of water. I built the pressure tube as part of a wood bender, the pressure caps were modified from...

Did a few quick materials tests on the upper radiator hose, since I didn't plan on using that one. Specific gravity of a chunk of the material is equal to that of the silicone couplers which I am using in my IC piping, both the ones that came from Driftmotion and the ones that came from Mopac...

@AJ'S 88NA: Yes, I know about the one on the block, it's the one behind the cam gears on the head that I wasn't sure about. @IJ: Thanks, I think I would have missed that. I'm going to change the timing belt tensioner anyway, but the old one should do as a placeholder for the machining process...

Well, I'm looking into the MAF-T Pro. Quick question: Does the front timing cover for the head need to be machined with the head? It looks like it could cause a lip which would be difficult to seal, but I'm not sure. (Well, I suppose that it would be easier to grind that off separately if it...

Received the kit today. Doesn't look bad. The silicone hoses look much the same as the silicone couplers that I've been using with my IC piping for a couple of years now. The shapes and sizes look reasonable. It may be possible to use the factory clamps in places, but I'm not going to hold my...

Liquid electrical tape is great stuff. :) @Greek: That sounds like the symptoms of a loose nut. The heat is produced by arcing across the loose connection.

Idle is open loop, so it's based on the AFM signal pretty much alone, as is WOT. Part throttle is closed loop, and so the ECU will trim fuel to maintain the 14.7:1 stoichiometric AFR. The two states are completely different. 10:1 is pretty rich. With the 550s and Walbro, you should get rid of...

Yes, the calculations are simple, but the CFM rating is what must happen regardless. It's not the whole story, of course. IJ's experience of larger IC piping resulting in less lag, for example. The corners are probably more important than the length, and drag more important yet. I will still...

It's not necessarily that the hose will "flop onto it" -- I know that my own aeromotive AFPR kit hose is too tight to move easily, but if anything else conductive is in the area, it's a nice place to get a high power arc across to, and just to make things more exciting, it's also a high pressure...

I can't see the reduction of intake pipe length having anything noticeable to do with lag. Each linear foot of intake piping at 2.5" ID (Larger than what I'm using, since I'm using 2.5" OD tube.) is about 0.034 cubic feet. At moderate RPM, say 2000 or so, is about 100 CFM, so this introduces an...

I believe that's the line to the PS pump. Then there's the other one that goes to the accordion hose. It provides a bit of air (therefore higher RPM) when the PS is in use.

The NA tach won't work, unless you change out the driver board. If you do that, it will work. I have an NA cluster, because I like the volt gauge rather than the boost gauge that doesn't work for anything above stock boost levels anyway. I swapped out the tach drive board, though my tach is...

Just bought the smaller kit. I didn't want the larger one, since replacements for the IC piping are useless to me.