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@OP: Assuming that everything is in good to excellent condition already, and that your cooling system is tight and secure, with no build-up of junk between the A/C condenser and radiator, your head gasket is in good condition with head bolts re-torqued to 72 ft-lbs, or head gasket is replaced...

I'm still a member on supras.com. @gsxr: And I still maintain that an FCD is still safer than the Lexus AFM, since it doesn't mess with the TCCS learning function. Putting on the Lexus AFM is putting on a part that is WAY out of spec. The learning function is there to allow for parts to be out...

Well, even if the 7M is non-interference, it doesn't take much of a build-up on things to make for a problem, and a busted timing belt means a zero WHP motor. As such, the timing belt is something that is so worth a bit of extra attention.

It's all copper. Audio wire is generally made from finer strands, which is supposed to reduce parasitic inductance and capacitance, but if you don't keep it sealed, it means that if it's exposed to oxygenated moisture it will degrade faster. The insulation that it comes with will be fine in the...

I've replaced mine. The major adjustment is at the hinges, Spend the time to get it right there, and the rest will be in place fairly well. I didn't adjust the bumpers at all for mine, did 90%+ at the hinges, though I had to move the striker a bit. (<2mm) Since I had my bumpers well adjusted...

If people are too lazy to buy distilled (Or at least demineralised) water to mix their coolant with, then I tell them to buy pre-mixed coolant.

I used a 2.75" silicone coupler from the 3000 pipe to the throttle body, which was tight, but fits well. The Speedsource lower IC pipe that I used with the CT26 was 2". I highly recommend that you use a ruler and measure. The 2" coupler was super-tight, but fit.

Also... The CEL is a light bulb and they DO burn out... Unless none of the lights are coming up in which case it's less likely.

Just took a peek at the stock connector on the one in the garage. The pins are in a narrow triangle, with the 2 black ones being side by side, and the blue one being in the middle opposite. The one that I have has the blue wire broken. I was going to solder it back together, but I don't really...

If you want the car to run cooler get a better radiator. The radiator is the primary factor in determining how much heat the system can get rid of. If you have a good enough radiator, the thermostat can (as you want it to) actually close from time to time. The thermostat's job is to keep the...

The heater element is just that. An element. I don't think that polarity is at all important in that. There's an ECU pin for heat, and the other side goes to the wire harness (Brown/red, IIRC) The online TEWD at CygnusX1 should have the pinout of the connector.

D'OH! My bad. 2 black wires are for the heater, blue is for signal.

I remember that guy from the supras.com mailing list. He fought rather hard for the 440s being adequate with the Lexus AFM, and did a lot of data collection to prove his point, on the basis that the TCCS wants to run way too rich in the first place, and that more power was available at a leaner...

Check them for continuity to ground. My guess is that the black ones will be very low resistance to ground, and that the other will be lowish resistance (12-20 ohms) to ground. (Ground being the threads on the sensor). As I understand it, the knock sensor is really a microphone with a narrow...

And here I thought that the idea of a divorced downpipe was to give the wastegate exhaust more flow so as to prevent overboost. There should be no reason at all for boost pressure to increase with a correctly functioning divorced downpipe. Okay, you've verified boost pressure. 12PSI is about...

First things first. Verify that you're actually over 8 and not hitting FCO due to charge pipe leaking. Then... Check wastegate operation. Apply a pressure pump to the wastegate actuator and verify that you get movement at an appropriate pressure level. (Visual confirmation of movement...

I don't think that it would hurt for AIT any, but I don't think that it would be worth the weight. I suppose that the time that the air is over the turbo is probably approaching the time that it's in the intercooler, but that piece of pipe is nothing like an intercooler in its ability to...

Do not put money into anything that you plan on replacing later. Any cash spent that way is purely wasted. I follow this philosophy for about everything. Even if you bargain hunt for everything that you put into rebuilding the GE (And/or swap a 7M-GTE in) you won't get the money back out when...

I made my own leather shift boot after some *&^% decided that he needed my stereo more than I did, and cut mine. Always been very happy with it, and since the leather came from the scrap "odds and ends" bin, it was almost as cheap as finding one at the wrecker.

Considering that you have all of the sensors and whatnot from the '90, it'll be fine. You may have to swap some of those over, but otherwise, it'll all be good.