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@Nick: That's the crank clearances. Wrist pin clearances are here http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=80 This says that 1 thousands is more than tolerance. "Maximum oil clearance 0.02mm (0.0008 in)" Standard clearance is less than half that.

@SWD: It's being considered, but since it's (relatively) easy to change after, it can wait. @Numba1: Nice and all, but I can't imagine even being able to ship that here for the kind of budget that I want to spend, unless it'll polish up at full standard sized journals, in which case I might be...

@Ryan: Nope, just don't expect to find 'em cheap on eBay. The lesson here is to go to the dealership and learn what they're worth new BEFORE you bid on eBay.

Still looking for a crank that isn't junk. Bleah. Told machine shop to go with a bore. Ordered the Arias 83.5mm pistons, which they'll wait for to get the bore *just so* since I'm looking for a good crank... So far... Block decked, line bored, and will have .020 overbore. Head decked, 5...

I believe that... Also, stories like this are the reason why some readily available parts (Like, say, fog light lenses) will sell on eBay for higher than brand new parts are available at the dealership for. I keep an eye out for them, since I'd like a new pair, but will probably just buy them...

I swapped an '87T motor into my '89NA, so the opposite of you. Most of it was just plug 'n play, with a couple of exceptions. The ABS wiring was different, a completely different connector. I made a jumper harness using the chassis side of the '87T harness and the engine side of my '89NA...

I'm pretty sure that's a standard 8mmX1mm thread. I'l know for sure when I get my block back. I did replace mine with studs already.

So... If it's a flat top, then how do the 1JZ valve covers sit on, since if they use the same gasket, they must have the same bumps at the front for the cam covers.

Well, since the OP was looking to change them for a FFIM in the first place, I guess that shouldn't be a problem.

Only if you want it to look really ugly when the bondo cracks, which it will. Might have better luck with fibreglass, but really hard to make it look good. Best bet would be if you know someone who can weld aluminium.

Well, for what it's worth, I left all of the A/C components in place when swapping in a 7M-GTE into my '89NA. It continued to work until the expansion valve crapped out last year. The compressor will be exactly the same. As far as I was able to determine the lines are also identical. Probably...

If you mean that you want to pour fresh oil to displace any dirty oil which might be occupying the oil passages, then knock yourself out. Not sure that it would do any appreciable good for just one time, certainly not as much as just making sure that the next couple of changes are done on time...

$12 each... That's too rich for me, but probably accounts for some of what I paid for last time I had the valves done... $50 for 14... That sounds more my speed. I'm sure that I'm going to have to get a bunch, but first, got to buy a good feeler gauge.

:: facepalm :: OMG. Can't believe that I read that... I drive in Canada. Have done so for more than 25 years. Not everywhere in Canada is the same, just like not everywhere in the USA is the same. I've also witnessed some interesting biases in certain police populations. (I'm half Japanese...

Okay, shop says that no bore was needed on the block, so no bore it is, which pretty much rules out forged pistons, it seems. (Apparently I screwed up my measurements.) Crank came back as having been cut before, and was what the shop considers to be on the bare margin of okay, but they do say...

All of this is looking extremely familiar, down to the HP goals for the finished engine. Currently my block is at Weldandgrind in Edmonton, if you want to see what kind of work they do, I'll be picking it up early next week. the hot tanked and magnafluxed the block, (repaired a small crack at a...

I was actually pretty certain that the kit does include at least some of those. I know that I identified the hose from 3000 pipe to BOV in my kit.

An MSD tach adapter should do the trick.

Seems like something that would be done for a subwoofer enclosure. If that's the case, then I'd probably recommend some additional bracing with the replacement flat panel.

The cruise gets it's signal from the speedo cable, but there are several things which can prevent it being set. I've got a bypass on my clutch start switch but it's a completely different switch. (Start switch is at full pedal depression, cruise switch is at the top of the pedal travel.) That...