Search results

Similar design, but mk2 supras were 4-bolt. Starquest hubs were 5-bolt (like mk3's) MK2 rim: Starion/Conquest rim

You use the lug studs and lugnuts to hold the frame to the hub, lubricate the center threads (they will get very hot) and use a long ratchet to thread your way to victory(impact wrench helps greatly for that part)

Axle puller should get the job done, as would a nice, big air hammer. This: or this That's my work tool, haven't met an axle that stayed put under its 'persuasion'

:bigthumb:

I would say to leave the engine as it is right now until you have all the parts for the build, rather than trying to swap parts around- it just leads to more issues (unless you have something like BHG right now). The head that's on the engie may be worse than the one you have in your hads now...

Spark plugs won't change anything, stick with cheap copper plugs. Heat range 20 for denso plugs. Not sure on NGK plugs tho. I guess I'm confused why you would put work into a head that you're not planning on keeping around for long? Are you swaping to another engine or doing a built engine?

No, I think you're a bit confused here. "Called it" is an expression used to indicate that I had previously predicted the outcome or cause. (its kind of a joke) http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=called%20it I was simply referring to my previous statement in post #14:

Called it ;) Don't worry, I would be more worried about the quality of their shop if they cut the head 10thou and gave it back to you in that (unusable) condition.

I suggest adding some kind of scale to the picture so people know how big this thing is- a tape measure would work pretty well I would think. I agree it looks like a woodruff key, but the front 'hook' is throwing m off because woodruff keys don't usually have anything like that built-in.

Well, all turbo model Supra's had "Premium Fuel Only" in the fuel filler door lid, or at least mine did. But in response to your question, yes Premium fuel should be used in all turbo/supercharged vehicles for the best safety and power.

Yep, me myself I'd leave it stock with a side of stock :) You just need to make sure you use premium fuel (its needed anyways, but its more important now) You might be able to up the boost, but that's where you start risking stuff going bad so please don't do that.

Also realize that the machine shop will try to stick to your specs, but if the head isn't clean after that amount, it won't seal the head gasket properly- so they cut it until its clean.My opinion: slightly thinner head with a good surface > thicker head with a wave built in :P I do however...

Its not that hard to take apart- I could tell the housing boss was broken with it still installed in the cluster- just press the trip reset button while watching the backside to see if the mechanism is broken.

Mine had the same issue, and after tearing the speedometer mechanism apart; I found that the plastic housing that holds the gears had broken apart (not repairable). Replaced with a similar year speedo head assembly (not the entire cluster) and I have a tripometer again :)

Emo's family did 2 sets of HG's on that 2.5 forester :( , from my research the 2.5 was a terrible engine for reliability (much akin to the 7M's matra, but with no 'simple fix'). The 2.2sohc and the 2.0doch were much better as far as I can tell.

The thrust washers are on backorder...ask me how I know :/ I think at this point I'm going to leave the gears as-is and will just redo the trans if either of them grinds. The previous owner said third grinds at very high (7500+) rpm shifts, and I'm not sure if I'll be going that high...

I think I'm making this more confusing that it should be...:nono: I find it extremely hard (language-wise) to differentiate between the 'gear' part of the gear and the synchronizer teeth part. My concern is whether the synchro part of the speed gear is too badly worn for the gear to be re-used...

Aluminum is OK to use with E-85. Its when you start doing things like E-98 and Methanol that you need to start taking extra precautions with the materials you use. You still want to get an alcohol-compatible material with E-85 but that mainly pertains to the rubber hoses.

Me myself, am running 2 stock hardlines, 2 stock fuel filters, then some -6 pushloc hose for the rest. I also ties the evap vent line and stock retur lines together for the return side. Works pretty well so far!

Couldn't agree more! :bigthumb: