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That doesn't look like it's working either. I'm not seeing any movement at all in the clutch pressure plate.

Sorry, I should correct myself. 1:30 bump, not 2:30...

Holy crap. Posts at 9:00 AM, and is disappointed that he hasn't got a bunch of answers by 2:30.

I'm going to second the opinion to get all the '89 wiring and ECU. I'll also second the opinion about the stock clutch's lifespan. :D

As I read it, the current plan is to install the 57 trim turbo, while running stock injectors, stock AFM, stock TCCS. A wideband might TELL you that something isn't right, but chances are very slim that there will be anything dangerous while running that setup. We all know that the TCCS likes...

Started engine assembly! Just test fitting the oil pump and the oil line. Needed to modify my oil pan a bit with a hammer. Started from a very bare block (Just knock sensors installed) and installed the crank. Oh yeah, I also finished up some details int he interior. Someone asked about...

@Smashey: Well, I'd have been at about $2k for my 7M, and that is with no assembly at all. Difference there being that I have full confidence in the work that was done, and though it was pricey relative to what some people are paying, I don't think that I got a bad deal at all.

If you get 11 PSI out of that 57 trim, it'll be a miracle. 11 PSI is pretty safe with the stock CT26, but there's more airflow with the upgraded turbo, even at the same manifold pressure.

Blocks are different, but cranks aren't. Why not pull the crank install bearings and not deal with the headaches? Of course if your crank is OK, so much the better. Otherwise, plug turbo oil feed and return, water line bypass, oil cooler stuff, a and deal with lower compression ratio.

Probably going with 225 width front tires would help most. That extra 30mm picks up a lot of rut...

EFI needs an airflow measure, so you need an AFM unless you go MAP. The KV AFM is a decent one at most power levels, so it's good. AFM is more accurate, unless you have boost or vacuum leaks, too. Now I'll just wait for the "I hit FCO" thread. :)

Sorry. Edited post. You probably have all the parts.

Wait... looking at the video again... you put the hub in backwards. The throwout bearing should be on the flywheel side of the pressure plate. The R154 is a pull type clutch, so the bearing needs to be on the other side. You need to pull the whole thing and do over. Put the thrust cone, small...

Looks like you lost the snap ring that holds the hub in place on the pressure plate. I don't remember there being that much room for the fork to move when I did mine.

If you're going to leave the stock ECU alone, even with a Lex/550 setup, then you should be fine without a wideband. As soon as you start messing with A/F ratios, even with something as simple as an AFPR, it's a good idea. I didn't get one for my 7M with the Lexus/550 setup, and I don't think...

If the BOV is functioning properly, then it should not cause a boost leak. The BOV with the driftmotion kit is a knockoff, and as such may not be of the best quality. Maybe it's leaking. Probably it's worth recirculating anyway.

Y'know, I had some useful technical advise, but I'll switch to some social advise instead. Attacking those who can help you is a bad idea. I'm a Mk3 driver, and I saw nothing offensive about that post. I KNOW that many Mk3 drivers are people who can't afford to do it right. I sometimes ask...

Suprasport has the LIPP elbow, which I'm quite happy with. I have this with the RT downpipe.

No. Well, with caveats. If you do enough fabrication work, you can do whatever you can imagine. But the pre '89 lights and the '89+ tail lights are different sizes. They have the same outside edge and height, but they're not interchangeable.

If you are going to blow a head gasket with forced induction, you'll blow it with anything else that makes 300HP. Aside from extremes, the only thing that I can think of is N2O. Even then, you'll need some heavy mods. Higher compression pistons, port & polish head, bigger cams, headers, AIC...