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I'd assume that the Aeromotive AFPR is the kit which includes the J tube bypass. In this case, yes, you have one tuning control. As such, I'd say, install the injectors and Lexus AFM. You have a wideband, so see how that goes. You can make some gross adjustments using the AFPR if you're...

I just popped the pistons in the block last weekend. The rods are shot-peened stock. There are pics in the 'what did you do...' thread. Haven't finished assembly yet. Sure look pretty though. (Edit: Added photo)

I ended up looking at the same thing,. The only pistons that I could find in a 'standard' bore were the Probes, and they're a 'hone to fit' being .003 oversize. All the rest were at least a .020 overbore needed. In the end I chose the Arias pistons in a .020 over.

Of course ymmv. Some people (such as me) have very good results with just the Lexus AFM and injectors. Was I leaving power 'on the table? Certainly. But I had confidence that I wasn't going to damage anything by running too lean at 16 psi and melting a piston. I was making decent power for no...

Actually, the Lexus AFM and a boost controller is all you need to get to 16 PSI or so. (Assuming that you install the injectors with the AFM.) Another tuning device is nice, but if you're planning on going stand-alone, then I wouldn't invest in one.

That's my scramble boost switch location. The other coin holder is my remote start disable.

Yeah, thanks! I will be making heavy use of this as I assemble my 7M.

In the "overkill" department, I went for shot-peened stock rods, and I feel that's more than adequate for my (~450WHP) goal. With the forged pistons as well, I feel that my internals are more than up to the task.

Instead of reviving a year old zombie thread, why not look in at the stickies in the "other engine" section? You might find something like a thread on wiring the 1UZ-FE into a pre-89 Mk3 Supra.

Noted. I guess I was thinking about the Allen sockets on them. :D

I am planning to adapt the J tube blockoff plate stud to hold the FPR. There seems to be room, and since I have the kit that was supposed to be mounted to the shock tower, I don't have enough room to mount it that far back.

Most fasteners that I've seem in the 7M are either 6mm by 1mm thread or 8mm by 1.25mm thread. There are some notable exceptions like the head bolts (12mm by 1.25mm) or the timing belt tensioner, but those 2 threads will do most of what you need. Of course the necessary length of various things...

I can see the appeal that such a kit would have, but I don't think it'll save much money. From Drift motion: $65 for NPR Piston set w/ rings $99 for a gasket set $129 for a 1.4mm Titan MHG ($179 for 2.0mm) $120 for ARP ahead studs $115 for Clevite 77 bearing kit. Okay it doesn't include rod...

I have an '87 yellow plug engine harness connected and running fine in my '89 chassis. I can als0 confirm that the '89 harness is grey plug. If the harness that you have is yellow plug, it'll be fine in your '87, even if it is from an '89. As a bonus, if the block is from an '89, it should be...

The plugs are different. FWIW, I have a yellow plug ECU and harness in my grey plug '89. It plugged in, all except the ABS harness. The '89 is a special case though. It's grey plug, but has more in common with the earlier yellow plug harnesses than the later grey plug harnesses. The ECU...

You're not going to get the same pressure from a screwdriver as you will from a hydraulic ram, so if that's what your video showed, then there may be no problem. I was under the impression that the video was showing the clutch fork moving from the clutch pedal being pressed. Expecting to move...

Yep. People think that it'll be cheap and easy, and I think "You're deluded." Even if you get a JZA70 front-cut, there are issues with things like the throttle cable. If you've got an '86.5-'89, you've got motor mount/crossmember issues to deal with. There are issues with getting the PS lines...

I can't afford a JZ. If I put in a JZ< it'll be a 2JZ, and it's going to need to put out more than 500WHP, since the only way that I'm going to go JZ is if it's to put out more power than the 7M is capable of for the same money.

It IS an easy swap. It's about as easy as any engine swap will ever get, but you do have to pick what you swap in carefully. I have an '89, and chose to swap in an '87 drivetrain. it went very smoothly, because the '87 drivetrain was very much compatible with my '89 chassis. Had I used a '90...

Same block casting, and in point of trivia, the 7M-GE got the newer, stronger block casting before the 7M-GTE. The Turbo-A spec cars used 7M-GE blocks for this reason. The turbo blocks have the oil squirters drilled/tapped. They also have the turbo feed and drains for both water and oil, and...