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Yep same pistons from the same company CyFi6 listed a few posts up. I've seen the after market pistons with that coating but I'd like to know more about Toyota doing that. Like when, where, and why. It's just such an unusual thing to see I'd like more info on it.

1. MASS indicates chassis ground. So give it a good ground on the frame. 2. Yes they tie together. 3. That is a neutral start input for the transmission, if you're manual you shouldn't need to hook it up.

We use non-vented gas caps, and pressure can build up inside the gas tank. The charcoal canister has a 2psi check valve to relieve this pressure. If you closed that pipe then the pressure is probably finding another way out. Try to put the evap system back in it's there for a reason.

Did you miss the picture with the Toyota name and part number cast into the side skirt? And the other side has aisin cast into it. They are definitely OEM. The coating though, what is the back story there.

Yep, true OEM. The previous owner got the car in 2007 and he never did anything with the engine, before that I can't account for. However, when I removed and disassembled the motor and the little plastic details that people usually break and don't replace were all there. Ground point were all in...

Interesting, wonder where they got these. To the best of my knowledge The motor has never been open. But I could be wrong. WARNING! Links to large files.

Did Toyota ever coat the factory 7M_GTE pistons? I just pulled the pistons out of a 1992 motor and the top of the pistons look like they have a gold coating. Even after cleaning them up there is a clear line. I'll get pics up in a minute. I don't remember my 1987 pistons looking like this.

To sharpen the point that JJ was poking with. How have you determined that the fan clutch is the cause of your overheating?

Glad to see your back, I was following your thread and the boom it stopped. Wondered what happened, but very glad to hear your OK.

Since this is an off the wall problem, I'll shoot out an off the wall idea. What if the ISCV was locked in full open or the plunger was missing for what ever reason. So the engine was getting all the air it could handle and it was trying to manage the idle speed through ignition timing and fuel...

Not sure if you checked this yet, but as you said, the Map signal wire should indeed be on pin 62 for the Aristo.

How do the wires look going to the coilpacks? Since the're located right on top of the engine the insulation has been known to breakdown and crack, especially on the earlier Aristo motors due to age. I know you said you verified the coilpacks, but I'm curious about the specific condition of the...

Based upon what I have read and seen, I have found no evidence that the 7M was developed with the express intention to receive turbocharger technology as modern turbocharged engines are nowadays. It's design would indicate that the 7M was intended to be a competent and powerful for it's time I6...

This is a good observation, the system not drawing the coolant back in to the radiator from the overflow is a sign the system is not sound and not holding pressure. Start with the simplest or most obvious solutions first. You know the radiator has a crack in it. So get your PWR radiator now or...

IJ pretty much had the solution, you should listen to him. The boiling point of water increases as you raise the pressure. The boiling point of water at sea level is 212F. The boiling point of water in radiator with an 18psi cap at sea level is 255F. The radiator needs to hold pressure or the...

Yes, that's the wire. And you want F2 http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-densobottomslotconnectorf2.php The tabs are low on the Aristo injectors.

I'm not familiar with f1 or f2, however it does uses two different connectors, but the only difference is color, one is grey and one is brown. And Toyota only offers the grey one now. The part numbers are: 90980-11154 90980-11284 I'm not sure which one is still active, but if you go into...

Yes on the first part and no on the second, but you're close. It's a single pin female connector with two blue wires going into it. It should be near there.

Your right, it seems I did leave that off of there. Now, which A/C compressor do you have on there the 7M one or the Ariso one with the 7M head? If its the Aristo one, you actually only need one of those wires. The B-W coming from connector 'C' pin 5. the other two are not used on the MKIII...

IBoughtASupra is correct, and the system will work fine that way. It's the way it was designed to work with the 7M. Like the pinout says, connect pin 13 of B1 to pin 34 of E10. However, the 2JZ ECU has the ability to deactivate the A/C clutch under full throttle conditions so that no power is...