Thanks JJ: That means a lot coming from you...:)
You once mentioned codes that won't light the MIL. I was wondering what they were?
Not sure if this is the right thread but what the heck..
:withstupi LOL Good call Ian..
Also, What kind of head gasket was used (was there a rivet) and how much boost are you running and on what turbo?
And what did you torque the head down to in ft/lbs?
And LOL Jdub's #6 post is right on...(all of them are, but that one is another possibility)
I just read your first post again and I should add I always put a little grease on the lip and backside of the seals prior to installing them for two reasons. First reason is to make installation easier and the other is to prevent damage to the seal during startup until oil can get up there.
It is really hard to tell if it is or is not your cam seals unless you pull both cam gear pullies and the steel backing plate to expose the cam seals and look. If it is the head gasket, you have some of the work done already :). Cam seals are easy..
Also: Get your o-ring for the CPS from...
Wow, Those are all very poisonous for sure. That sounds pretty damm fast for a virus to me... :dunno: Could be some sort of blood poisoning I would guess if not a bite? Still sad..:cry:
Save your pictures as a .jpg file and then try to post it. If it is to big, open it with mspaint, select all, then resize it. and save as .jpg.
I use www.tinypic.com to upload pics, then it offers you a as a link for you to copy and post in this window to automatically show your picture.. :)
Sounds like a direct short in the brake light system somewhere. I recently replaced my brake light bulbs and I had the same problem.. One of the new bulbs was bad (Lit up fine but was drawing too many amps) so it was just a matter of swapping one bulb at a time untill I found the bad bulb...
Sorry Kurt, I had it right the first post, I will fix it. :) UPS is very expensive last time I used it. I was not sure if you set the price of shipping or UPS when you use the calculator? (havent sold lately)
That is how it is supposed to work when the diag jumper is installed man. :) You got it...
I would still replace the return springs, (I think I have 2 stock) One pulling down to the dash pot, and one pulling the linkage to the passenger side..
You should be able to set the timing with...
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