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I've had both trannys respectively, and saying the W58 "sucks" is just one member's opinion. I thought the 58 shifted like butter compared to the 154...of course if you are just looking at hp capabilities, the 154 is a clear winner. Shift-wise, the non-turbo trans was much more user friendly imho.

George at Raptor is a great guy to deal with. I bought mine from him, excellent service!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-Supra-Turbo-7MGTE-JE-Pistons-Eagle-Rods-Rings_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247QQcategoryZ33623QQihZ025QQitemZ380022974065QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

It's very unlikely pirate oil could get into the combustion chamber that way. If that were the case alot of people would be complaining about the same problem. It's most likely valve train or turbo related. Perhaps the valve stem seals aren't entirely kosher, or valves aren't sealing correctly...

It's pretty self-explanatory, bro. Damn near impossible to weave the hard lines thru when the motor's in... http://store.driftmotion.com/Static/Itemfulllengthclutchhose.php

+1 on the coolant system pressure test. I'd ensure your water pump is good as well. Make sure none of your hoses have pinholes, and the rad is not opening under pressure. Don't overpressurize when testing, either. Any leaks should hopefully be apparent at 12 lbs or so. The top tanks on the rads...

His local race shop says it's worth $5K, obviously those guys know what they're talking about...he should just sell it to them, and they can unlock the other waiting hp, and pull low 11's all day long! sigh, another p.o.s. with a waterhead owner.

I love my Targa in the summer. Slap my weezy brace on, and zero flex.

Or you could buy one of the '88 wheels I refinished in top quality leather for $35 + $30 shipping, guaranteed to fit. Considering I spent 6 hrs sewing it, maybe I should move to China for that price, heh. On a serious note, now that I have a '90 Soup, it's redundant, hence the super low price.

As the thermostats are temp. activated, I don't think it should be an issue.

I have a nice signal switch assembly if you need it.

Ceramic coating cleans it up and lowers temps. Mine was about $100.

this covers the different options offered... http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58

Take your time, look on Craigslist, Buy&Sell, and wait for the right one to come along. Spend the $5500-$10k for a minty '89+ turbo already kitted. It's either that or find one like those, that needs everything upgraded and spend the $10k additionally, and all your free time. Ask me how I know...

I'm running oem endlinks and mounting tabs with my Whitelines. No problems so far, but I haven't done any autocrosses or big challenges with them yet, either. If you are going to be slamming it around, I'd upgrade everything, just so you can sleep easy. gl!

on a positive note, i have supermonitor display and computer for sale cheap, for an '88T manual...if you need it, lmk.

Find another Maf, and try it. First unplug the efi fuse with key on for a min. or two to reset for codes. The afm's are delicate, and shouldn't be touched if it can possibly be helped.

ATI is the only other non-stock pulley I've seen being used. The lightened ones apparently don't have the correct dampening characteristics, hence the term "wet noodle" type crank in those cases. I'd stick with the ATI...

I used a cheapo ring filer, at least it does both sides at once... Be careful! to reiterate, you can't replace material if you get carried away! ps. Iirc, it was a pain doing my Ross rings, quite the production. gl.

Why do you have to change the master cylinder? Is their a fundamentental difference in them?