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Why do they need to be replaced? The tsrm doesnt mark them as a part that needs to be replaced. Do they stretch or something?

Have you noticed any weird vibrations since you did the swap?

use some red loctite and torque them to the proper value in the proper sequence

warm readings dont mean anything, you gotta look at it at cold and same ambient temp, and it should always be the same level at that point

dont know if youre going to be able to fix that, what id be more worried about at this point is all those metal shavings you got into your engine..

lulz

shit! That cam is fucking crazy!

This thread makes me cry. I hate my 7mge:icon_cry:

Hope you didn't understand that as to trim your head gasket!

Thats what i suggested, it increased my compression ratio. I have no idea if there was anything previously done to the head, as far as i knew it was a stock never touched 7mge head with 87k original miles on it. 200 for cruising seems a bit hot, if my thermostat is supposed to begin to open at...

Let me get this strait... Your mom is going to get mad at you because your dad broke your car... This has nothing to do with reliability. Blow a hose off a brand new car like that and watch the same thing happen. Thats like saying your car isnt reliable because you have to put oil in it to make...

There is no water line that goes from the engine to a gauge.. its all electronic

It shouldn't, if you have a well working OEM spec thermostat.

best bet would be to remove the wheels and torque down all the suspension and brake components and go from there. Also check for ball joint, tie rod, and wheel bearing play.

Get oem!

I also don't recommend putting the sender unit in the stock location. I did this and it ruined the sender unit twice. Its so close to the exhaust manifold it gets way too hot, even with the rubber boot over it, they got ruined.

Sounds like rod knock if you heard rattleing.... And BHG if you saw smoke, but this all has to be verified by someone with experience.

If you remove the inner wheel well cover you will see that you can run the wire into the fender though a pre-existing grommet and then into the cab through another pre-existing grommet.

the o2 sensor is one of the major inputs to the computer for getting the correct air/fuel ratio, without it your car is going to be going off other, less accurate inputs, and you will end up with an engine that doesn't run as well as it should. Fuel usage will be affected. This is of course...

The rear engine seal is behind the flywheel, you should be removing this to have it surfaced if you are replacing the clutch anyways. Dont put a new clutch on without getting that replaced or resurfaced. You can get the seals at any parts store i would think, but OEM is always better.