Search results

Has anyone ever filled the carrier bearing mount with that stuff they use to fill old rubber motor mounts? I remember reading somewhere of some stuff you can actually pour in and it hardens to create a solid mount. Since the bearing itself is fine on the drive shaft, why wouldn't this work...

Its hard to explain what happens. I feel as i go over the speed bump with the front wheels, the suspension compresses a little when initially hitting the bump, as i continue over it the suspension rebounds causing the front of the car to raise up, and as im coming off of it, all that weight...

Couldn't find anywhere in the tsrm what causes an engine to sound like a helicopter...mine doesn't... Not trying to be an ass but seriously, imagine trying to help someone else with a noise problem and they tell you it sounds like a motorboat... that doesn't tell you anything, you need to be...

not me i wont spend money anywhere i dont have to...lol What are the downsides of having a bad carrier bearing? I have looked at mine and i can push up on the driveshaft and it seems a little loose inside the bearing support, but i only notice vibrations right at about 80mph, above or below...

thats not true at all. Just because the dipstick comes out dry doesnt mean theres no oil in the sump. Go check your oil level, make sure its not overfilled.

Honestly i have had nothing but troubles with my Megan track series coilovers. I hate them, if i could i would go back and get regular springs/struts. The fronts are extremely soft in comparison to the rear, i cant go over a speed bump strait on any faster than tip-toe speed literally because if...

Ive gone ahead and purchased an infrared temperature gun, but now i will know for the best accuracy i can use my little thermocouple. Good stuff to know thanks again.

ah, i see. I have a "thermocouple" (didnt know that word before, thanks for teaching me!) built into my DMM, but its so hard to use as i have to hold it against the part im measuring, and in most cases the part i want to measure is way too hot to touch, so its very hard to use.

so what is the best alternative?

at least you lived through it and can benefit from it. sorry to hear dude thats a big loss.

well if your alignment is good, all suspension parts are good, and your rack is working normally, it should drive strait, there's no reason for it not to. If you had a bent frame the alignment being correct would still make it drive fine. I think you should ask someone with more knowledge what...

look up the starter relay mod, sounds like a classic case of an old signal wire

About measuring at the right angles and such, are you saying that is specific to the gun or for temp guns in general. I know the one i have used you need to point it right but it wasnt a big deal, just wondering if you are saying the cheaper ones are worse or what. This is a useful tool that...

Im in the seach for an infrared temp gun recently, looking to buy one. The only ones i have used have been Raytek and they seem to work great, but i was wondering if anyone else had any other ones or even if they have a raytek, what do you think of it? I see some of the smaller raytek guns for...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXIGkwjhrW8 You can actually hear it pretty well in that video if you listen for it, you can hear it pretty clearly around 13 and 18-20 seconds. You need to click on the video and say "watch video in high quality" otherwise you cant heat it

I will try to do this next time i hear it, though it might now come up in the video because its so faint a noise.

ok i took the belt off, still get the noise sometimes. Its difficult because it is intermittent, but does sound like its coming from the bottom end for sure(underside not necessarily crankcase) I can hear it a lot better from under the car than from the top

Sure the circuit already has a relay, but do you know where its located? Its in the passenger side kick panel. It is the old wiring that causes this resistance, thats a lot wire going all the way from the kick panel through all the harness stuff and then down to the starter, look at the awg of...

just because the supra has mass and doesnt get damaged easily doesnt mean its safe, its almost to the contrary. Newer cars have specially designed crumple zones in order to destroy the car, not the driver. THink about it, a car that hits a wall at 30 miles an hour, the one that crushes more used...

it should work, as your starter gets used the contacts arc and it wears the metal a little, as that happens it requires a little more force against the contacts than your old wiring can probably give, so if you give full battery power to the starter pull in coil it should help. Theres no reason...