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If you're painting your muffler black to avoid unwanted attention, you may want to paint that shiny exhaust piping too ;).

I'd like to point out to you all that if you check a BOSS turbo from suprasport.com they use the same idea in their turbos that NM is using. A bar is cast into the exhaust housing to separate the exhaust gases to reduce turbulence. It's really a good design and I've seen it on other setups...

Click on the link he posted before you ask something that has been answered dude ;).

Screw the visor I want the wide bodykit ;).

A stockish breakin is what I'm going for. I'm going the send off my stock injectors to be flow matched and run either my stock CT-26 or send it off to be rebuilt and maybe upgraded to a 57 trim and later sell that to my cousin when I put the big boy on after break in ;). I want to keep stock...

The stock BPV will still recirculate some of the air back into the turbo, keeping you from backfiring and stalling as much as if you were just venting all bypassed air into the atmosphere. Helps some, but the best thing to do is to recirculate all bypassed air back into the accordian tube ;).

The stock IC should be a bolt on affair unless something has been put there like an oil catch can or something.

^This man speaks the truth ;).

Everytime I hear someone say E-Town I think these guys are somewhere near me because I also have an E-Town near by ;).

It's like what I said the other day on here. If you plan on making big HP with the car, you might as well buy the 500.00 one becuase you would end up changing/replacing the same shit in a 500.00 car as you would a 2000.00. It's NA, so it's up to you. Can you say NA-T ;)?

I didn't mean it like that, I was talking about this site's claims ;).

FTW ;)

Here's where I came up with the twisting effects of the AL DS: http://www.suprasport.com/DSS-One-piece-Aluminum-Driveshaft_p_83-267.html So can we assume that this is bs?

I'm glad I know about the whole deal with the lifespan of the AL shaft now, If I ever decide to get one (I like the smoothness of the 2 piece) then it would either be a modified two piece, or a one piece steel, thanks!

Al is has more elasticity (sp?) than steel correct? Say if you were jarring down on a car with some serious torque (enough to noticably twist the DS some) the aluminum one would allow for more give, correct?

I deem the oil temp to be the more important one of the two, there have been plenty of heated debates on which is more important, but a water temp gauge is def. better than the stocker ;).

Time to send that pretty manifold off to the ceramic coated along with the turbo! ;)

Also, the AL driveshaft will allow for more "twist" as compared to the Steel one piece.

I suggest getting the XD-16 unless you have some other way to monitor A/F's, although I'm not sure if the LM-1 has a built in monitor, (maybe) I know the LC-1 doesn't. I suggest Oil temp and Oil pressure guages along with water temp.

The only mods I'll be doing to mine are strictly for the sake of better gas mileage ;).