Find a machine shop with a CBN machine and make sure they have the instrument to measure RA spec, I forgot the name of it... I had the same problem with a machine shop I called yesterday. I told them I needed the head and block flat with an RA spec down to at least 15, he said, "is that rough or...
Upgraded CT will get you that power and that price, but not at that boost :(. The BOSS series probably would though. You've gotta pay high dollar pricing for lower boosting power ;).
I still suggest doing it, but It's your choice. There's nothing wrong with retorquing, just don't exceed the recommended specs ;). Let us know if they did indeed loosen up some if you do it.
I'm still hammering it ;). And it wasn't actually a horse, it turned out to be a donkey in discuise (thus that's why it didn't want to be lead to the water).
It may not be a requirement, but it sure does give the person driving the car that extra piece of mind. It never hurts to triple check your work. Any bolt/stud can loosen up if they havn't been heat cycle before installation, like I said, just piece of mind that I would follow ;)
How do you measure stretch on a Head Stud??
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=465936&postcount=9
Edit:: This is also why I would take a used, heat cycled set of ARP head studs that are mechanically and physically in great condition over a brand new set any day ;).
I would suggest rebuilding your fan clutch and keeping that. You need 3 bottles ( IIRC they are 50mL bottles) of 3000wt (?) dif. fluid from rc cars. Mugen is a great brand, like this...
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