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Not the issue. The issue is the steel friction insert overheats and welds to the clutch disk. It's not able to transfer the heat to the aluminum the same way it would work if it's a normal all steel flywheel.

Been around for a while, still look like a retard riding it though....

Problem is finding tach and speedo that's large enough. Fuel is a bit of a pain IIRC as well. That's why if I would do it I'd remove the aftermarket gauges from their housings and get them to look as stock as possible.

Drag launches where you have to slip the clutch is when it happens 99% of the time.

OEM is electric. It's usually preferance as both work fine, but wires are easier to route than vacuum lines ;)

Stupid question, but are you putting the TPS in right? The prongs on the throttlebody slide into slots on the TPS lever, they don't rest against it.

He has some of the HKS setup so it might be better to go with the rest of the HKS setup (if you can find it).

MKIII Supra AND a tow truck in the same pic :rofl:

It should be accurate, but I'd double check it...

Pics would help as well...

Check it from the diagnostic port like in the pic to see if the safc is showing it correctly. Even without the long screw you should still be very rich with a lex/550 setup...

Later one is cheaper.

The change took place during the years, it's not specific to JDM or USD models.

If it looks like this, then yes it's a perfect fit.

Toyota has 2 different thread sizes, so no, not all will work.

Also a good chance it was align honed with the cam caps on wrong meaning they're fine...

Full Orianthi album. This chick can fucking shred!

Dyno sheet? No idea on the turbo to be honest but it sounds a bit high for pump gas on such a small motor...

Use an analog meter, digitals delay a bit and it's harder to read the moving numbers. Are you testing the right contacts as well? Keep in mind the pins are upside down on the GTE:

That's what you think, those wheels don't look that bad and I've seen MUCH worse get repaired.