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Dammit, I hate my internet........... Read my next post....

It really depends on what your doing, but "circles" for the most part will always give you a strong and good looking weld on thin material (as long as you have a good rythem like Jon said.) Now for thicker materials with beveled edges whether it be XXX land, zero land, closed root, open root...

Just like others have said, its not so much teaching as it is learning as you do it. At that same time, just as jetjock stated, dont skimp on bookwork. Get a book or two and read up on it, plus there is some decent info on Miller's website. ( www.millerwelds.com ) in thier resources section...

Hmmmm, My 17yr old coils fire just fine with a DIS-4.

The sensor reads from a gear in the tranny. I cant recall on R154's if it is a seperate toothed gear or if it read from a drive gear like the W58's. The sensor is magnetic hall sensor. Yes you can remove it and plug the hole if you are removing the ABS system. In order to remove it, you will...

The Charcoal canister is part of the EVAP system (evaporative emissions system). It stores fuel vapors from the tank while the car is turned off and purges them into the motor when the car is running. The hose coming off of it is a fresh air intake. The hose goes into the frame rail right below...

Jake, not sure what all you are still looking for, but piping wise, have a look here. http://stores.channeladvisor.com/verociousmotorsports

piston coating would be better spent money. I am not fully knocking oil squirter as they do have there merrits, but really do not have any benifit for street engines. I know that toyota has engineers that know a lot more then I do, but just because they did something does not mean that it is the...

I just took a look at the greddy unit, and its not exactly a good example of an expansion tank

Expantion tank systems do not normally have an overflow resivoir. The expansion tank itself is not filled fully, Basically has a large air pocket that allows for the expansion of the coolent without dumping it into another resivior.

They can be added. The spots on the main oil galley needs to be machined, drilled and tapped for the squirters. The are many discussion as to whether or not they are truely worth having. If you search, you can read up on it and decided for yourself. IMO, unless the motor is being build for...

As long as the bar does not interfer with anything throughout the suspensions full range of motion, then yes, parallel to the ground is the best place to set the bar when the suspension is in the normal (at rest) position.

There are basically 4 parts, The caliper, rubber bushing / dust boot, steel slide bushing, and lastely, the bolt. You have the caliper abviously and the bolt too, so you are either the rubber bushing / dust boot is gone or the steel slider sleeve is gone. My guess is the rubber part.

Thats right, sorry it was 93 / 94. I always get my R134 and OBD II change over years backwards.....

Yes, using air is a risky thing cause any major leaks that you are unaware of and of an accident like the compressor hose rupturing can cause you drop valves down in the bore (not good). I do the rope trick anytime that I am doing such work with the head still on the engine.

R134 did not come availible until the mid 90's. 95 / 96 was the years that auto manufactures changed over.

Cant agree more, except that I built mine from scrach for about $15 to $20 in stuff from ace hardware and a bit of time. whether you build one or buy one, reassembling the valve train on 7m and JZ along with others I am sure is a breeze..

one thing that I just remembered that probably would have made things a little easier. I know that you already bought the Dataq unit, just to let you know, you wouldn't have had to buy an AUX BOX form Innovate. Thier SSI-4 unit would have done exactly what you were looking for and it only runs...

It depends on the type of driving that you do.... For example, on the highway, I get between 350 and 375 per tank, and city driving, I get about 100 miles less (250 to 275) Basically I get about 19 to 20 mpg city driving and about 26 to 28 mpg on the highway...

I would have the Dataq log AFR also so graphing for reading will be easier. Its to hard (almost impossible) to correctly read different inputs that are on different graphs. The only way to do it is if both graphs have matching time scales..... Not worth the hassle when you have additional inputs...