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Damn, you needed that oddball of a bore size?

Ian, did you change the pedal ratio on the Z or was it manual to begin with?

yeah, rear brakes do suck on our cars... hell, for that matter front and rear both do, but I've got much better brakes in the front now and will be building the rear kit along with the suspension. fronts are 330mm x 1.25 thick rotors and 6pot calipers rears are going to be 325mm x 1.00 thick...

Nash, Im assuming that you are asking "WHY" about the manual brake conversion..... Well the stock booster interfers with the valve cover, but thats an easy fix by swaping to the mid 80's 2wd truck booster. My reason is for starters, it would open up room for down pipes later on for the TT set...

Just Ian (IJ) said, drilling into the factory drain pad is fine on an assembled motor as long as you go slow and use a good thick grease to catch the chips... I have done it more then once.... Just remember, the slower the better. afterwards, if the engine is on a stand with no pan, you can...

Yeah, as long as you use all the proper electronic parts (like GTE in injectors as you mentioned, ignition system and so on) it run perfectly fine. The only functional differance between the two systems is that the GTE EMS can (in simplest terms) hand more air flow and thats it. Yes, there...

Here's a few shots of the two headers (left and right). ------------------------------------ Now that the headers are done, its pretty much time to start yanking out the worn out / limping around 7M to make room for the UZ. Now here is the part that Im sure some are...

Nashman, thanks....... -------------------------------- Well the headers for the swap are now finished. Here are some pics of the passanger (right) side in progression and completion as of this evening...

Time for some updates, The drivers side header is complete and the passanger side is about half way complete and will be finished tomorrow. Here are some photo's Completed Drivers side (Left) Particially completed Passanger side (Right)...

Looks good.. Keep up the good work. Oh and I like the wing too.

You can mig aluminum. Just want to have a nylon liner and fairly short whip. Side note: What a lot of people dont know is that MIG was actually invented to do aluminum. This was back during WWII. The reason for it was cause a faster way to build air plains was need and TIG (back then known...

I know that this is somewhat of an old thread, but the comments about squat is wrong. Sqaut is actually bad for traction. For one, on independent suspensions such as on our MKIII's if you get squat, you are thus compressing the suspension, well what happens when the suspension compresses?, you...

Hey, I saw your tread with the question but not until after it was locked. You gonna be cutting it very close in the rear and definitly have issues in the front while steering if you hit any dips or bumbs unless the car is very stiff. The FN01R-C on my car are 17X8 with a 43ET and a 245-45-17...

Mike, the early UZ's have proven to hold 12+psi on a 100% stock unopened well tuned engine, this should also give easily 400+ rwhp. but yeah the plumbing of the downpipe is where the nightmare is if you want to keep AC. Without AC and relocating the ALT, downpipes are no longer an issue. I've...

Damn, no wonder why I have so many kids..... lol

Very very true... To add to this, make sure that your torque wrench is accurate... You might want to take it in and have it calibrated...

Although some might think this is a dumb question and no one asked it, but which bolts did you use? The manual flywheel ones, and not the one that were in your motor as an auto correct?

This question is pretaining to the wiring pins and connectors between the early harnesses and the late harnesses.... The question is, does anyone know whether or not the wire pins for and early harness fit the the same connector from a late harness? an example if your not following would...

Mike, I wasnt planning on making anymore to be honest. These are really designed for an otherwise just about stock all motor set up. Basically they are a compromise that should give a all around stronger and flatter torque curve which would make for an all around better street engine. These...