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Yeah, it does look pretty natural in the bay.... It sould have been an option engine from toyota in my oppinion. Im hoping to have it running with a base tune by tuesday....

I sold the wheels to Jake (Reign_Maker) a while ago cause I was gonna go with 18's and a bigger BBK possibly... Needless to say, 5Zigen doesn't make them in the offsets that I want so I never bought wheels.. The BBK is still on the car. Amazingly it fits the stockers, just barely but it does...

Ian, Thanks........

Its going to remain N/A for a while.... I really wasnt ready to do the swap but the 7M took a shit so I was kinda forced to do it on short notice...

Tomorrow is operation exhaust (headers back) and if I get time and feel up to it, then the wiring will begin.

As promised, a few pics now that the engine is in. I just wish that I had a bit more time to be able to clean the engine bay more and paint it cause it looks like total shit... Engine about to go in. Engine in....

The thing that I would be worried about is the tail shaft being to short and end up to far inside the tail shaft housing.... Measure from the Iron bearing plate (where the tail housing bolts on to) to the back face edge of the tail housing where the DS seal is in and let me know what that...

Hey gang, a bit of a small update. The engine is in the car. I'll get some pics uploaded later on this eve after I finish up for the night and get cleaned up...... One thing to note is that to my amazement, then headers do not hit the floor/ firwall area like I was afraid they would so Im...

Will be watching this... I just droped the UZ in my 90 about 30 minutes ago and am taking a break for a few minutes and decided to find my build thread to do a short up date to it. If you have questions about anything, let me know as this is now my 3rd UZ / A70 swap...... On a different note...

Very true but the aluminum will wear in the bore faster too... ..................................................................... For the 90 (as in my car) the non ABS unit is cast iron (or well the original was) the ABS unit that I got in was aluminum. Looking at the EPC, they...

Well I just had both in my hand and the only thing I can see thats different is that the ABS unit was aluminum and the non-ABS unit was cast iron. Other then that, no differance that I could see... So why did toyota do this?????

The top is the ball stud which is part of the lift. There should be a Hex made into it so you can unthread it from the hood. Atleast that how mine is.... I'll get a pic or two... They are 12mm Hex on mine....

Unless Im using totally wrong search terms, I cant find anything about what the actuall differances are between the ABS and NON-ABS brake master cylinders are. So does anyone know what the differnaces are between them????

I haven't bought new lifts yet, but the ball stud for the top (hood end) should be there. As for the lower, Im not sure cause from what your decribbing, the ones you have would work fine on my car.. Here are a couple of pictures of the lower attachments on my car.

Are you sure your just not confused with the year maybe. My 90 has the original lifts (I know that they have never been changed, car has been in the family since new) and they are tokico's and dont know about any clips that your talking about. They have an eyelet in the bottom where a bolt goes...

So is hell, oops I mean florida.....

Hmmmm, interesting!!!!! I always wondered what that plate was for... I wonder why AU GE engines got coolers but the US GE engines didn't?????

No, not fittings for a cooler. Unless there is something different with Ausie 7M's, GE engines just have a stud sticking out of the block for the filter to thread on to. GTE's have a adapter unit that hangs the filter off of it and on that adapter there are line connections that go to the...

that is absolutely the funniest shit I have ever seen...... The saddest part is the the people seem proud of thier work!!!!!!!!!! LMAO!!!!!!!!!!!

Yeah, dont even waste the time even thinking about the GTE cooler. Its just added weight that does nothing..... Like Ian said, you want a T-stat controlled in line cooler. One of the best you can get for the money if you have a decent salvage yards around you is a factory Series 4 or Series...