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My mistake, Its late here and I totally missed the the fact that its a JZ.... Sorry...... :nono:

Or you could buy the correct factory ones so they fit correctly... ;)

Depends on what form of fun we're talking about here ;)

Yeah, in your case, you did have a injector resistor pack but there was no need to change it as it is the same part as what was on your car.... there is only one resistor pack that toyota used on all MKIII's that needed the resistor pack.... Regardless of the situation, if its not hooked up...

Let me make one correction to what I said before, I forgot that the early GE cars (with yellow top injectors) did have a resistor pack but it was the same resistor pack as the GTE cars. Later GE's (with green top injectors) did not have the resistor pack. So it the car is an early GE (thus...

GE cars do not have a resistor pack because they have High IMP. injectors. GTE cars do have the resistor packs cause they have low IMP. injectors... If you are using Low IMP. injectors, you need a resistor or you'll fry the injector drive transistors in the ECU. Nothing of what I said in that...

Oh BTW, The fuel pump resister (one on right side fender) wont make a differance as to which one you have there. They are the same for both GE and GTE cars...

You didn't change and of the injector wiring did you? (hope not) I would try to find it and put it in and that should solve the issue. With out it, there is no power going to the injectors thus the ECU can fire them.... If you cant find it, then pretty much any injector resistor pack(s)...

The 1gz's are only in Japan and Russia AFAIK. Seeing as how Jap engines are limited, Im sure that like many other cars (example Nissan Skyline) its under rated but either which way, its rated at 280 hp and 355 tq... My guess is either its under rated or de-tuned to meet the Japanese Government...

What exactly did you do for the conversion? Im assuming that you converted to GTE electronics correct? We have to know what exactly you did to help diagnose the problem.

Nash, there really is no differance between the 1 and 3 uz blocks except for the larger bore of the 3uz... There is also a noticabley less material between the walls due to the larger bore. I haven't heard of any issues with this area cracking yet, but at the same time there isn't really many...

I've seen a couple of bad brand new Optima's over the years. Like everything else that is manufactured, you do occationally get a bad on in a bunch.

Glad you found what it was. Just to answer one of your pervious questions cause I didn't see it answered, Yes bad diodes in an ALT can and do cause excessive current drain. This usually cause so much of a drain that the batt. will be dead in a day or two.. Just for future referance, the easily...

Just to clearify something here. Yes the UZ are ballanced and blueprinted from toyota, Yes they do have Forged cranks. No they do not have forged rods or pistons. The forged rods and pistons part is a typical internet myth. The later motors (VVTi ones) do make more power but they aren't as...

Honestly, not yet... Im sure that it wont be until sometime shortly after the first of the new year.

What did ya expect, hot cheerleaders in bikinis and a perfect car wash dont go together, but still a good show for $20... Hell if it was that good, I'd probably take it back and pay another $20 for the show again and to have them get the missed spots....

Yes, now that is very true....... :nono:

Hey whats wrong with a white car???

Yeah, those are Mike's mounts. The only problem is that they are solid mounts and bolt 100% between the engine and subframe, no rubber.....

Thanks Cham.... Stopping isn't to bad. It is a little heavier on the peddle effort then I was expecting but Im getting use to it pretty quick to. You do have to remember that I changed the peddle ratio so its not just simply a removal of the Booster... Im gonna in the near future here probably...