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Anyone have a picture of the front fender, more specifically, the area behind the front mudflap (mudflap removed of course)? I just need to see how the fender spacers are installed.

I think it looks great.

so far, $5000 for bodywork, paint, and assembly + a little over $1000 for body parts.

those are the latest pics...yes, I have a long way to go. Exterior stuff is easy though, so it is a bit deceiving. I can have the tails, bumper, balance of trim, and the entire rear of the car put together in an evening. I will be doing some work here and there over the winter, I am just...

well, it has been over a year since i had seen the car with a single body panel on it, so it was pretty sweet to see the doors, hatch, and fenders on. And gtsfirefighter - no heated garage = no working for me. The aim this winter is to re-finish all of the parts I can (exterior window trim...

A couple pictures before she gets put away for the winter.

the only paint I see there is on the body of the car, which is exactly the way mine looked. If this truly was a fake, you would have to sell it for far more than 50k to get any money out of it. Stock replacement parts are not cheap, even at a substantial discount.

I'm sure they will address the MT issue, but if they do intend to keep the car AT only, I won't be a future owner.

I recommend snow tires, or else you may end up like me.

Taking to the beach? Don't you live in Calgary:confused:

Its on the driver side, bolted to the transmission. It has two bolts to the transmission, and the one flare fitting to the clutch line.

I could not imagine how great it would be working on that car. Bolts would actually come off, and everything has the nice yellow shine of zinc dichromeate/cadmium plating...

I don't think that car was even a sport roof...it looks like it was a hard top and just cut the very top of the A-pillars.

the dragger has larger piping from the resonator to the muffler, however, coming off the catalytic converter, i believe the pipe is only 3" (from a flow standpoint, it is insignificant however)

I wouldn't recommend fireproof shielding, but thermotec heat wrap - If the line runs close, you want to shield it from radiant heat - I'm pretty sure fireproof shielding is just that - fireproof, It does not shield heat, which the line needs.

whoa, thought that was my car for a second...then I noticed the lack of rust....and the lack of a targa.

yeah...and my car started its life in Quebec. Too bad the body didn't fare as well as the bolts...

ah, if that included removing the bolts, that sounds about right. Only one of my lower front suspension bolts wasn't seized. Somehow, 5 managed to come out from the rear.

Because of this, I went back to new stock bushings. Also, reading the original thread, 15 hours sounds excessive for replacement of the bushings. It took me probably 3-5 hours total to press the old ones out and press the new ones in having never done it before.

Heat and pressure curing (in an autoclave) will yield the optimal strength for a given fiber/resin mixture.