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if it is what I think it is, it will be at the front bottom corner of the driver door. Take the panel off and you will find the plug for it. My car came with the incorrectly installed alarm-mod - the door locks fired back and forth rapidly....which is why the control was removed.

:word8kn: thank you.

that is also the way I understood it. Also, I think that in most OBDII cars (well, both my nissans anyway) there is always some way to read the codes using the check engine light. Google search turned up the answer for me.

with a 2j you will have to modify the egr (if you decide to keep it) and drill/tap a port for the cold start injector. Once you get a suitable throttle body and alternator bracket, you should be good to go. This is what I am doing (minus the EGR)

The price of getting parts produced is easy to speculate sitting at a computer. Actually going out and doing things gives you a much better understanding of the way things are. If you can make a quality piece for a purchase price of $250, good on you, and go right ahead. I'll reiterate; the...

for the complexity of the manifolds, the quality, and the fact that they are american made, he must really love making these manifolds and helping the community, because with the price is ridiculously cheap. Props to him for that for sure. As for the machine shop charges, there is so much...

4 of the 6 2jz ports aren't round, and the ones that are are of larger diameter than the 7m lowers. I understand your point about optimum performance, but half-assing this would result in a considerable loss in performance. I'm not one to do something like that just to make a quick buck.

it has nothing to do with clearances. Align a 2j upper and a 7m lower manifold and you will see that it is not as simple as you think. The 6 7m ports are all in a straight line, while the middle two 2j ports are lower than the outside ones. As a result, for smooth flow, the holes in the...

I got a quote from 3 different machine shops. You would have a look at the adapter itself and have a knowledge of the cnc process to know why it would cost that much. There are no constant angles on the flange. I still may look into having it cast though, that would be a much simpler alternative.

lol....due to the number of complex angles involved, a run of 20 of those adapters would have cost roughly $14,000....I think it would have been difficult to get a GB going for that amount.

do you (or anyone for that matter) have a part number for the hinge? I can't find it on the EPC.

It is Aussie rules football...either way it is confusing.

larger ID and less expensive than SS braided hose

lol...yeah, nevermind.

IIRC it is not on the control arm, but it is on the hub assembly itself. From this picture, you can see where it contacts the control arm (rearward of the outer ball joint mounting holes)

what are your supporting mods to run that boost? If you are on stock 440s and the stock fuel pump, you fucked up big time.

wow, i'd probably pay a good deal for that...if it was in fact functional and not just an overlay. weird, it has a catalytic converter warming warning light as well.

(warranty)

There are many things you can do. The most important thing is getting rid of all the scale covering the area. A wire wheel works well. Then, the easy way is to use a rust dissolving gel, followed by an inhibitor, followed by a good, non-porous paint layer. If you get rid of all the salts...

Where are you having that done? Somewhere locally?