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if somebody really wants to know...and I mean bad...you can send me a sample of body steel from a parts car, and I will tell you. (using XRF spectroscopy)

my "5th from the right" number is a 1. 89 turbo with LSD, so that theory is out. IIRC, the last 6 numbers of the vin tag are production numbers.

it is exactly what it sounds like. Increased pressure (thus leg effort) is required to disengage the clutch (higher pressure plate clamp load) - this can bend the firewall and not fully disengage the clutch for the same "apparent" clutch pedal movement.

I've said it before, and I'll say it again - CF or CF over fibreglass radio/shifter bezel and matching fog/cruise/coin slot panel.

so how do we go about ordering these?

At least it is an NA.

it can be and it is.

for those wondering about carbon and kevlar together, like clip said, they are both fibres, and they can be interwoven and overlapped to gain the desired part properties (impact/tensile/compressive/etc) when combined with a specific resin.

fuck that, they've got 4-ply over there...4-PLY!!

Electric lumbar, bolsters, front and rear tilt, forward and rearward movement, and electric reclining here. 89 turbo.

If you've run the 10 psi spring up to 30 psi without issue, why change to a 15lb?

Toyota set is actually pretty cheap. You can't get the front lower control arm bushings separate though... (i've got an entire set of new toyotas on my car, including new front control arms - i think it came to about $550)

:ugh2: really? You must hate the smashing pumpkins...

possibly a clutch master cylinder... do you have the clutch fork?

The difference between the non-abs and abs hubs are that the hole for the abs sensor is not drilled out of the casting on the non-abs hubs. If you want to completely remove the ABS, you can get the lines from a non-abs car, remove the ABS pump, clip the wires from the wheel sensors and it will...

if you can get ~8 tons of pressure out of a vise, sure. Thats about the force at which the bearings pop out.

perhaps the government is leaving the issue to darwinism...

there is a good chance that your problem is the starter contacts. If your car won't start, try boosting it with a running car. If it starts, that is a good indication that your starter contacts are toast, not your starter.

I replied to this. reading>you.

You would nitride the crank, not the block. Nitriding is a surface hardening treatment applied to steel in order to increase wear resistance, fatigue resistance, and corrosion resistance. By the way, the block is cast iron. You do not nitride cast iron.